First attempt at Kitless

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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Penpal View Post
    Ian I like your work on this pen, there is nothing wright or wrong with a kit pen or so called kitless like yours. They both serve their purpose. You will find it another ball game if you like beautiful timber. Triple start does seem a way to go few users would put up with 9 turns to remove and restore the cap.

    Congratulations on your first of this making for you I see a great pen.

    Peter.
    Thanks Peter, I ultimately want to produce a timber kitless (with acrylic section and acrylic threaded inserts) but one step at a time!


     
     
  2. #22
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    And so you should be pleased Ian, that's a really great first attempt, if the cap fits....wear it.
    Kind regards John.

     
     
  3. #23
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    Excellent first go there Ian.

    One way to reduce how many turns to remove the cap is having a shorted threaded section.

    If it was half the length it is now then you should take only 4.5 turns, if that makes sense..

    Some good advice with threading as well

    The only other thing I would do is have a thinner parting tool to make a smaller recess behind the threaded section, it also looks as though it's not quite square so wonder if it's that that the cap threads butting up against.
    If your happiness depends on what somebody else does, I guess you do have a problem. - Richard Bach

     
     
  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by silver View Post
    Excellent first go there Ian.

    One way to reduce how many turns to remove the cap is having a shorted threaded section.

    If it was half the length it is now then you should take only 4.5 turns, if that makes sense..

    Some good advice with threading as well

    The only other thing I would do is have a thinner parting tool to make a smaller recess behind the threaded section, it also looks as though it's not quite square so wonder if it's that that the cap threads butting up against.
    Thanks Eamon, Was thinking about where to get a thinner parting tool and was wondering about filing down a reciprocating saw blade?

     
     
  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burt25 View Post
    Thanks Eamon, Was thinking about where to get a thinner parting tool and was wondering about filing down a reciprocating saw blade?
    Robert Sorby do a couple of thin parting tool options Ian - Parting Tools
    "Never trust a man who, when left alone in a room with a tea cosy, doesn't try it on" - Billy Connolly

     
     
  6. #26
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    An excellent beginning Ian!

    9 turns, if you use a triple start, will still make 3 turns. Twice too much... You can make the threads shorter, and/or add a ring instead of turning away some material. A black ring would be classy on your pen. Not too late! The step between threads and barrel could be higher though.

    It is anyway useful to have a thin (say 1 mm) parting tool. You can use a HSS drill bit glued in a handle and grind it. Easier than ordering a new one and waiting...

    Waiting to see the cap!

     
     
  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pierre--- View Post
    An excellent beginning Ian!

    9 turns, if you use a triple start, will still make 3 turns. Twice too much... You can make the threads shorter, and/or add a ring instead of turning away some material. A black ring would be classy on your pen. Not too late! The step between threads and barrel could be higher though.

    It is anyway useful to have a thin (say 1 mm) parting tool. You can use a HSS drill bit glued in a handle and grind it. Easier than ordering a new one and waiting...

    Waiting to see the cap!
    Thank you for your help and advice Pierre. Wondering how I could get a band on at this stage? I assume I would need to part off the threaded part and sleeve on the ebonite. Other option is to take 2mm off length of thread (will need to check I have a deep enough hole drilled for the converter)

     
     
  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burt25 View Post
    Thanks Eamon, Was thinking about where to get a thinner parting tool and was wondering about filing down a reciprocating saw blade?
    Yep, saw blade would work well, but I would use the bench grinder rather than a file. Good option as it's much cheaper than buying.

    As Pierre quoted, any tool steel should work well.

    I have an old wood chisel that has been ground and sharpened to suit what I need.
    If your happiness depends on what somebody else does, I guess you do have a problem. - Richard Bach

     
     
  9. #29
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    Ive found one slight problem which is that the 1/4" hole in the back of the section to seat the converter is just a little too neat - the converter goes in but its tight and when I pop it back out it leaves the metal sleeve of the converter behind! - I figure I need to open this hole by only a hairs breadth, but how do I how that without potentially leaving it loose?

     
     
  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burt25 View Post
    Ive found one slight problem which is that the 1/4" hole in the back of the section to seat the converter is just a little too neat - the converter goes in but its tight and when I pop it back out it leaves the metal sleeve of the converter behind! - I figure I need to open this hole by only a hairs breadth, but how do I how that without potentially leaving it loose?
    If I understand the problem correctly then you would be better to make the hole bigger, the convertor fits to the back of the nib and the metal part of the convertor doesn't need to touch anything.

    Peter
    Be a yardstick of quality. Some people aren't used to an environment where excellence is expected. Steve Jobs

     
     

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