First acrylic fountain pen

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  1. #1
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    First acrylic fountain pen

    Turned my first in acrylic, second ever fountain pen today!
    Executive model, can't remember the name of the blank, if it even came with one!
    Attached Images Attached Images


     
     
  2. #2
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    Oh yes! a lovely looking pen Margo, well done.
    Kind regards John.

     
     
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  4. #3
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    Good looking pen Margo!!
    Angelo

    Guaranteed not to rust, bust, collect dust, bend, chip, crack or peel.
    I know that you believe you understand what you think I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant.

     
     
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  6. #4
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    Well done a nice pen.

     
     
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    Well done great looking Pen Margo.

    COOPER 01/08/1998-31/01/2012

     
     
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    Lovely pen Margo, the blank goes well with the gold fittings

     
     
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    Neat pen Margo.

    Peter.
    Nil Desperandum

     
     
  11. #8
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    That's a great match with the pen. How are you finishing your acrylic Margo?
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  12. #9
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    Hi Phil,
    I use micromesh, then a couple of coats of CA glue (this went wrong on one part and had to be taken off again!)
    Then a wipe or two of burnishing cream.

    I have been advised that burnishing cream is better than tcut car polish, which I did previously! It is, though I'm not sure if I'm doing it right... Wipe it on, turn the lathe on slowish and polish, using an old tack cloth.

     
     
  13. #10
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    You don't need to bother with the CA Margo. Get a good finish with abrasives, so that you don't have any tooling marks or radial marks showing. I always give it a good going over with 0000 wire wool too (along the length, with the lathe stopped), as a last abrasive process. Then you can get to work with the burnishing cream.

    Yes, Tcut is quite coarse - burnishing cream is much finer, but by putting on CA, you are introducing a medium which firstly, unless you de-nib it and go though a fine abrasive routine again, will cause imperfections over the top of an already perfect surface, secondly is un-necessary since the surface doesn't need sealing, thirdly, will only sit on the surface rather than integrate with it as it might with wood, and therefore may well flake or chip in time, and fourthly, won't shine any more than by omitting it and just using burnishing cream.

    Use a clean tissue to wipe off the cream though, in preference to a tack cloth. Rather than just wiping it on, work it in, and work at it with the lathe running like you would an abrasive, which is what it in fact is. Take it off with the clean tissue, and keep turning it to a clean part until all the blackening is removed. There's no harm in repeating the process as many times as you need to. You need to burnish at a sort of medium speed. There are those that do everything at the fastest possible speed, but you'll get a better, more even shine if you slow it down to maybe 1500 - 1800rpm. Fastest isn't always best, and certainly slow is no good for burnishing.

    I hope that helps
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