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Tung oil or Danish oil ?

MikeD

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I have an order to make a large salad bowl plus eight salad side dishes before Christmas. I'll probably make them from rippled sycamore.
The problem comes down to so called "food safe finishes" - there is so much contradictory information it is difficult to find definitive answers. Even products labelled as food safe have their detractors whereas other "folks with opinions" preach that all finishes are food safe once they are cured :rolling:

I normally use walnut oil with beeswax melted into it but apparently some people are allergic to walnut oil.

So, I have narrowed the choice to Tung oil or Danish oil.
Danish oil is a lot less expensive than Tung oil but appears to be diluted Tung oil with a few extras to speed up drying.
Tung oil appears to require a bit more time and effort to apply correctly.

Any suggestions?
 

Woody

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Hi Mike I have been making food bowl for over 20 years now with no fatality's nor adverse side affects so I dont need some plonker who sits behind a desk all day telling the rest of the world what they can & cant do I have and will continue to use 1st if I want a gloss finish Teak oil 2nd if I want a satin finish Danish oil it works apply liberally with a brush let it soak in for 5 min then wipe of any excess I normally for a working bowl put a coat on every day for a week and denib between each coat then let it sure for a week denid with a bit of 600 grit then apply your last fine coat I tell all my customers they will need to refresh the finish periodically depending on how often they use it
The old rule was 1 coat every day for a week then one coat a month for a year then a coat every year
 

Woody

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Mike another little trick with oiling is make up with thin ply or MDF some 6" squares with panel pins punched through every sq inch and stand your bowls on them to dry
 

Woody

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Take it with my blessing mate it is an old idea I done exactly what you are doing but years ago Its good to pass these old ideas on because they are disappearing as us old un are popping our clogs
 

ataylor

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Am i right in thinking Woody that you just hammer some panel pins into 6" square pieces of mdf to stand the bowl on, what am i missing?
 

Bluefoxy

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Jun 26, 2013
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About 18 months ago I made a 16" dia salad bowl for my daughter from rippled sycamore and finished it with Woodoc 10 Products - Woodoc which I got, I believe, from Phil Irons Welcome to Phil Irons

It's very easy to apply with a clean rag and then wiped off after a few minutes. Allow to dry (a few hours) denib with 1200 wet&dry and apply further coats. I gave it a total of four coats and it is very hard wearing. After every use my daughter wipes it clean and very occasionally gives it a light coat of olive oil. Nobody has died yet!

Ray
 

edlea

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The pins protrude out of the mdf and the bowl sits on the pins just like in the old days when people would lie on a bed of nails!!!!!!

So that's why I didn't like going to bed when I was kid !!!!!:noway1:
 

MikeD

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I was hoping someone would come up with a finish that would cover my mistakes and make my efforts look as professional as Woody or RetreatJohn :pray:
Me, I'm into instant gratification :ave_it:
 
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