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Making mistakes and getting em out of the way

Grump

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Not turning related but all means to an end init?
I got myself some cheap Poundland blades to play with and had a little play today.
This is so much different to engraving wood which is much more forgiving on the gravers.
Too deep and it's buggered, no second chances here so it deserves a good bit of practice.
Results below don't be kind because I know it's crap but wait and see how it improves as I gain experience init?
At a pound for 3 knives I can afford to makes a few mistakes and find what looks best init?
P1070948 (Custom).JPG

P1070951 (Custom).JPG

P1070957 (Custom).JPG

P1070958 (Custom).JPG

The writing on the blade is a hunters prayer but I couldn't get it all on yet, will do next time on a Hunters Knife init.

Heavenly father, to you I pray,
A majestic deer may come my way.
Let my aim be straight and true,
This my Lord, I pray to you.
A swift clean kill is all I ask,
Take his spirit swift and fast.
For his last breath should not be,
One of pain or agony.
Let his soul, Come to Thee,
To roam your heavens,wild and free.
 

Woody

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They are looking good mate obviously not to a fantastic standard yet but well on the way I like the last one but it looks to have something missing and the 2nd one looks good to me the first one looks to deep keep em coming mate I'm sure you will get there in the end in fact I know you will
 

Grump

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The top one is a diamond tip graver which tore the steel to pieces and vibrated the whole table, Y set at 0.5 from touch off.
All others where tungsten tipped graver with Y set at 0.3 from touch off.
I think the blade tilted in the vice on the picture which I have now stepped the vice top so it sits in rather than grips to.
Didn't notice until I removed blade from vice too late then no chance of setting back in exact same position as it was getting dark by then.
 

Jimjam66

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Brian, number two looks better than number one definitely! I would think with steel that a depth of 0.1mm or thereabouts (assuming that you have the blade surface set exactly 90 degrees to the direction of travel of the Z axis) would be ample. Are you using a 30 degree vee mill?
 

Jim

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The prayer and the picture do look better than the using the length of the blade, for some reason that just doesn't look right??
 

paulm

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I like the picture the best and the prayer next. Not keen on the other two though, in my opinion its too deeply etched and the font is too gothic. Good effort though I like what you're doing.
 

Grump

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All comments taken aboard and most agreed with.
I think the back part of the blade is best etched as opposed to the length but I did want to get a logo from this one therefore wanted the whole blade engraved.
I have purchased a load of Fonts and the licence to use use them commercially so wanted to try the expensive ones, which happen to be the Gothic, Old English and Scripts.
I used a 60 degree vee blade for these and yes agree too deep although I think touch off needs some refinement, I was using a business card to set it which I will use a piece of 90 gramme paper to try next attempt.
Maybe rewrite the G-code to take steps and see which I prefer.
 

Jimjam66

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Brian, I'm not sure this will help, but I followed the tutorial for setting up an auto Z-axis touch plate zeroing on this page. It includes the VB code for Mach3 - perhaps you are bright enough to port to your software? Makes setting stock surface to Z-zero an absolute breeze ...
 

Penpal

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Brian,

Covering too much surface on an expensive blade will not impress as much as discrete treatments. Most users of blades insist on allowing the blade maker to be the prominent marking for bragging rights any attempt to cover the blade would be resisted. At what stage does the depth of engraving inhibit the blades strength lengthwise? Handles are most likely a beaut source of attn getting. I have a world famous mate ie who uses particular burls for his rod handles as his trademark success lives next to Canberra in Queanbeyan N.S.W. Rod Makers use silver engraved parts for their premium rods. I am very keen to see you succeed and throw in my 10 cents worth only in an attempt to help you broaden your base product.

Perhaps a distinctive logo would exceed the lettering proliferation? Have success mate .

Kind regards Peter.:thumbs:
 

Grump

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David excellent link and one I had not seen until now, perhaps I should make a touch plate, that would ensure a constant touch off point on the Z axis and with that known constant it would be easier to figure out around that.
Linux cnc does have the facility to auto zero using one, as you say simples init?
I am still waiting for a penny to drop, there is something I am missing or refusing to see, until I do I shan't allow the easy to take over and will continue setting up manually, only because I am stupid and need a bash on the bald spot init?

Peter your comments are always welcome dear chap and you raise perfectly valid points, firstly lay to rest any idea of me engraving on somebody else's advertising space, designer goods are as you say for those who want bragging rights, they are most welcome to them and to deface that would devalue it also, unless I become more famous than than the designer which is in a dream for another night.
As for how deep before the integrity of blade strength is affected I really could not answer, I would imaging there are so many variables to be taken into account to arrive at a intelligible answer.
I would however surmise that any ingression on the blade could alter its structure and effect weak spots.
My intention is merely to scratch the surface with an alternative to acid etch which is widely used.
 

Jimjam66

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Here's another idea, Brian. It uses a diamond bit and works without the mill spinning, simply being dragged across the surface. Makes up for any unevenness but may not be hard enough for hardened steel blade material. Pricey but you could probably concoct something Similar in your shed ...

This lot do something similar but a lot cheaper.
 

Grump

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This one is what I used for the top picture I have one very little used from when I had my pantograph engraver.
It dragged across the steel and just ate its way into it, maybe because it is cheap thin steel and quite flexible.
I have done exactly what he did in your previous link to my vice and have the blade sitting in the jaws which has put paid to that problem so no more chatter at that point and the blade cannot tilt.
My solution was obviously the right one as he did it too I found out through trial and error, always the best way I think.
Thanks for your help it really is appreciated, another go at it tomorrow, hopefully cured today's issues we'll see init?
 

Grump

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Young David.
You sir are a genius, I had a look at my spring loaded tool and it was totally seized up inside the spring had rusted solid inside so there was no give in the mechanism.
It was the stiff spring that was in there anyway which would be the wrong one for this job. (Ok on the pantograph where it's all done by feel).
A good clean up and a quick trip to our local spring factory yielded these stunning results sorry about the pictures they are of the factory guvners Zippo which I couldn't get a proper pic of in his office.
Being brushed Ally it is not showing well to the camera but trust me it looks great in real life, I am over the moon init?
P1070968 .JPG P1070971 .JPG
 

rowdyyates115

It's Showtime.....
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Yeah, picture then No'2. I don't think it will take you long to get the hang of it... :thumbs:

Bit slow at writing this and it now looks like you've got the hang of it already....:thumbs:
 

Jim

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No2 looks like it has just scratched the surface, but shows the image really well, is No1 an image of a Dog Brian? Also No1 looks deeper cut thou I can imagine that the photo could make it look this way ... :thinks:
 

Grump

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Yes Pic 1 is a dog with a firm spring fitted, pic 2 is a dragon with a fine spring fitted.
Both have same graver with diamond tip attached and dragged, just different pressure from springs.
Factory owner was a real helpful nice guy, Gutted when I told him about George.
I said above the lighter was brushed ally I meant brushed Stainless.
 
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