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Making scrapers ?

PhillH

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Now this might be a bloody silly idea, feel free to put me right if it is.

I've come to the conclusion that I could do with some different form scrapers for doing smaller bowls and boxes.

Given the (seemingly) ridiculous prices that manufactures want to charge ( I understand overheads and all that but they end up bloody expensive) I wondered if it was possible / sensible to consider making them from ordinary wood chisels and making my own longer handles.

Thoughts ?
 

PhillH

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Forget I asked, I just found a very good article as to why you shouldn't do it.

It's because of the tang not being designed to withstand lateral forces, on a wood chisel the force is through the tool.

Apparently If I'd had a bash, the fist catch could have snapped the tool at the tang, with possibly unfortunate results.

You live and learn.
 

Woody

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I have made many scrappers from high carbon steel that can be hardened and some from now listen for the gasp from some but all I can say is it has always worked for me old good quality files I don't mess with the hardness of the steel I just grind it flat then grind the profile I want a lot of turners will condemn this idea but all I can say is I have never had one shatter, crack or break and to be honest I don't know of anybody who has and at one time that is all most turners used including old Bill Jones who used to wrote for the woodturning mags every month and he was turning all his life professionally with many different materials

Right go I'm going to get slaughtered now but I can only talk from my own experience not some body else's experiences
Edit but not from Brian LOL :winking:
 

PhillH

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Woody are you saying that you're using files without heat treating them in any way ?

Just grind off it smooth and then put the profile you want on ?

I'm thinking for things like inside corners in boxes and lids, so not chewing huge amounts of wood out, or maybe making smaller (1/2 wide) side scraper type tools for bowls, again for the finishing type cuts not massive wood removal.
 

Woody

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Your right Phil just grind and go the metal is already very hard and will stay sharp a lot longer than hss steel good luck mate
 

Grump

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Listen to Sir Woody he knows.
If you want smaller go to Masonry nails they also work well init?
I have done both and I know he has too .
 

Woody

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Listen to Sir Woody he knows.
If you want smaller go to Masonry nails they also work well init?
I have done both and I know he has too .

Me to Brian I got some Masonry nails the other day to make some small tools gave my others away last year I have also made tools from 6" and 4" wire nails to cut the underside of a captivated ring
 

paulm

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Listen to Sir Woody he knows.
If you want smaller go to Masonry nails they also work well init?
I have done both and I know he has too .


Damm, another thing I've got to go and get now... but really thanks for the tips to you and Woody.
 

Lons

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I used a couple many years ago but just for very light cuts on difficult end grain. I ground the top and sides but didn't bother too much with the bottom as not the cutting edge. I just ground a new profile as I needed though it helped that I had a free supplier of files and they were good quality. I don't know if todays cheapo versions would much good.
Just a light touch on the grinder leaving the burr on and could easily produce shavings though blunted quickly.

I had a sharpening session at the weekend and this one in the pic is about 30 years old. Never had a problem.

Bob
 

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Grump

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Got some in my shed like that and still use them to this day.
And the benefit of rubbing down with the same tool if your careful enough.
 

Woody

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The old triangle files make a great pointed tool with three sharp edges they roll beads so easy clean up end grain and can be used for planing cuts
 

Penpal

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Tick all of the above however I prefer to take out the temper of files first they dress real easy on a flat bed grinder vand retempering the section you want works fine we have in my Wood group a Smithy section with a home made forge and some accomplished steel workers dont want to be the first to pick out the bits if they shatter a mate of mine heavy handed had this happen UGH. I have used high speed steel in a variety of shapes and sizes to make Bedans and drill rod for round Bedans typical chisels made famous by the French turners from way back ever and scrapers same tempering as chisel makers use, Allen keys shaped to cut floating rings, the ubiquitus masonry nails, I agree with Woody the good old tools that folk sneer at before HSS sharpen better than HSS and are a fully overlooked resource of fine tools second hand quality ones only not the cheap sets sold today.

KInd regards Peter.:thumbs:
 

rowdyyates115

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After our southern's meet last year and being shown a thing or three from all the guys that attended I promised some that the tips they exchanged with me. I would try to use, make and pass them on.
Grumps (Brian) kindly showed me his homemade scraper, I was impressed and with the expert help and guidance from him. I have made my own version of his tool. I hope it does him justice...

Here goes:

The Scraper

grumps scraper1.jpg


Scraper with Steadying Handle
This is for the future for when I get down to hollowing bowls etc.etc using a longer Chisel - that's the plan.

grumps scraper2.jpg


Scraper with Steadying Handle Fitted (Can be used both handed )

grumps scraper4.jpg


Close-up of method to change Chisel. (Using Grub Screw)

grumps scraper3.jpg


Thanks 'GRUMPS' for all your help and ideas :thumbs:

Your thoughts :thinks:
 

Grump

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Rowdy that is fantastic, I simply love it and am flattered you big me up so much.
You have improved on my version although I have never needed the steady arm maybe it will be very useful.
Can't wait to see what you produce with it.
Very well done young sir init?
 

Lons

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That looks excellent.

Just a couple of questions: Does the grubscrew stay tight in use? Is there a locating indent / hole for the grubscrew in the tool bit?

Bob
 

Grump

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That looks excellent.

Just a couple of questions: Does the grubscrew stay tight in use? Is there a locating indent / hole for the grubscrew in the tool bit?

Bob

Good question Bob and one I did some experimentation with in my early days of making these.
I used both M6 and M8 grub screws in the 3/8 tool, with the M6 I did make a recess for the bit to sit the screw in.
For two reasons, because the screws I had sat maybe a tad too proud creating a possible danger area, and for the obvious reason to grip better and stay in place.
I then tried a larger diameter screw and no recess for location, both were fine I never had any issues with them moving whatsoever.
The half inch version however was a different kettle of fish altogether, i did find it chattered no matter what I did with it.
The eventual answer was to add another screw at the side which is where Rowdy's steady arm will be an improvement, for extra grip and to hold the tool bit in place stopping the sideways play.
I have made many of these tools now and had many adaptations of it by adding sanders, grinding wheels and texturing tools, round and square hollowing tools, etc they are very versatile as far as the imagination will take you.

P1070976.resized.JPG
 

Lons

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Thanks for that Grump, I like the concept of that a lot.

I have some HSS steel in square and bar though it's in a drawer and I cant remember exactly what. When I took over a depot all those years ago we had a major clearout and I rescued some old industrial thick planer blades. I might look at whether it's possible to form maybe a skew perhaps?

I'm getting ahead of myself again - must learn to turm properly first:whistling:

Bob
 

Woody

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I have put Brian's tool to the test on all manner of turnings including deep hollowing no comments please I have made goblets, bowls, platters and vases also some spindle work and it performed very well personally I had no shatter at all even with the 1/2" tooling it also performs well when shear scraping
 
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