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Sanding with wax ?

PhillH

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I see on YouTube one guy in particular who always uses some kind of thinned down wax when sanding (Carl Jacobson I think it is).

Just wondered what peoples thoughts are regarding this as a technique.

I don't see anyone else doing it and have never heard anyone on here mention it.

Why would or wouldn't you do this ? Seems to me to be more of a chance for your abrasive to clog up, which is what got me to switch to Abranet (thanks Terry) which I think is superb so far.
 

Neil

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Phil,

The benefits of this method are primarily two fold and I would suggest should, if used at all, be confined to the bigger items, ie not pens! It reduces dust and when used with wet and dry, it is the wet, the lubricant. It does clog up the paper and you shouldnt use it with the likes of abranet. It also has the beneift of being a grain filler. Carl Jacobsen regularily uses paste wax, but you can use oil. I use Lemon oil/danish or finishing oil mix when making a bowl from Oak or cherry.
 

bluntchisel

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Hi, Phill,

I subscribe to Carl Jacobson's YouTube uploads and he always uses that cream out of the tin when he sands. This tells us that he must have success with it. I believe that in one of his uploads Carl explains what this stuff is (?)

Bob.
 

Terry

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You can use a paste wax and liquid paraffin but you have to microwave it to get it to mix properly and it will stink the microwave. I would go with Neil and use any danish oil etc. but use the cheaper versions for sanding. It does keep the dust down !!!!!!
 

Woody

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Sorry this idea has never appealed to me it seems a very expensive way to sand I'm not saying it dont or wont work just not for me so I cant past judgement on it
 

Penpal

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When it seems too good to be true or convenient it is IMHO bit like fire and water depends on what you do with it. Magic is best acheived dry by the experts I have seen over a long period of time. Timber selection enables familiarity, perhaps there are ingredients unknown here certainly contamination can eliminate a lot of classy finishes later. If dust is a problem fight it with dust devices rather than slippery stuff is easier in the long run. Trust you find your best way the impossible done right away miracles take a lot longer.

Peter.:thumbs:
 

Woody

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I may be wrong but wax on bare wood not a good idea the finish wont last within a short space of time it will just disappear also it makes it imposable to seal the wood for a proper wax finish and you cant oil it after but the best way for you to find out is turn something small say a 2" bowl shape and try it then see what it is like in a few months
 

Doug

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I've seen this paste demonstrated but I can't remember the name of the turner who used it, basically it was a mix of beeswax & mineral oil, the chap was using it on the inside small turned boxes to fill the end grain in the bottom & aid with sanding, I don't think he used it on the outside of the box.

I'm guessing, as I've not tried it myself, that it would hide minor imperfections in the bottom of a box in the end grain which is always awkward to get a really clean finish on.
 

Terry

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I've seen this paste demonstrated but I can't remember the name of the turner who used it, basically it was a mix of beeswax & mineral oil, the chap was using it on the inside small turned boxes to fill the end grain in the bottom & aid with sanding, I don't think he used it on the outside of the box.

I'm guessing, as I've not tried it myself, that it would hide minor imperfections in the bottom of a box in the end grain which is always awkward to get a really clean finish on.

Mick Hanbury uses it Doug and it does work as I have some in my shed but to be honest I cannot be bothered to put it on before sanding !!!
 

Jim

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I would have thought that you would have to already have a good finish on the piece from the tools to use this method? :thinks:
 

Doug

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I would have thought that you would have to already have a good finish on the piece from the tools to use this method? :thinks:

I imagine you do Jim, if I remember correctly it was only hiding minor imperfections in the end grain.
 

MikeD

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I read somewhere that Carl Jacobson uses his mix as he has become over sensitised to wood dust from not using dust control as a younger man. A possible lesson to us all apart from those no longer registered as turners :mooney2: lecturers etc :funny:
 

rowdyyates115

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I read somewhere that Carl Jacobson uses his mix as he has become over sensitised to wood dust from not using dust control as a younger man. A possible lesson to us all apart from those no longer registered as turners :mooney2: lecturers etc :funny:

Yes I've seen him using it on YT.
Always wondered if it was any good but seemed a bit to much bother and as Woody has said it could cause problems getting a good wax finish....:thinks::thinks:
 

Penpal

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So many pros only use a direct wax finish Richard Raffan for example also they do not sand past 400 grit or so one incredible pros finish off his skew was how he left his bannisters etc watched him turn identical 14 footer verandah posts from 10 inch square laying the first one down in front as a guide and I put them together after could not pick differences. In later year he made his 16 foot bed lathe himself turned the pulleys from hardwood.

Peter.
 

Macman

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Hi all.

Just reading through posts and came across this one.

Mick Hanbury definitely uses this method, I went on one of his courses and he also recently did a demonstration at our club where he talked about it. Mick's recipe is a mix of liquid parafin and beeswax, with some lemon essential oil in as he said it keeps his hands soft and smelling nice!

I have made my own and I put the liquid parafin in a container in a pan of hot water with the beeswax and heat it until it melts, never had any issues with smells from it, the only smell is the beeswax.

I don't use this on pens but I have no issues with it affecting the finish I use on bowls or spindle turning - used it under wax, oil and friction polish, it keeps dust down and acts as a grain filler. The first batch I made did clog the sand paper badly but I recently saw Mick demonstrating and the stuff he uses is much sloppier than my batch, I put that down to too much beeswax.

I just use liquid parafin and beeswax and I put this on wooden bowls using my fingers to rub it in as the heat melts it a bit. Use it to sand and as a finish on food safe bowls, let it dry and buff with a cloth I also use it on chopping boards that I make, as a finish rather than when sanding.

If you want to keep the dust down when sanding and you can't afford a trend airshield or similar, I would recommend giving it a try, you don't get the big clouds of dust. I rub it in before sanding and let it sit for 15 mins or so and then sand, I don't use it like Carl Jacobson i.e. dipping sandpaper in and sanding like that. You will need to change sandpaper more often when it clogs, but maybe using a more liquid version would work better.

Anyway there's my two penoth on the subject.

Macman.
 
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