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Help, please...

bluntchisel

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Hi, Guys,

I have an Axminster AWSL lathe, fitted with the Goliath 125mm chuck. The maximum bowl, etc, I can turn is 9.5". For some reason Axminster do not make a Cole jaws (to turn the bottom of a bowl) for this lathe. Does anyone know if I can buy a Cole that is compatible with my lathe? Or can a member make me one if I cover all the costs?

Regards,

Bob.
 

stevenw1963

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Can't help you Bob but the cole jaws go on the chuck, not the lathe so you won't find any for the axminster lathe.

The other thing you could try is a single 9 1/2 inch disc with routed slots for the buttons, which obviously move to clamp the bowl, the slots are shaped like a slight bend, can't remember the name of it.
The disc is then fixed to a faceplate or similar.

I'm sure some one will know what I am on about & the name of it.
 

Woody

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Hi Bob I used to use these with 2" thick wood on them and turned them to fit any bowl I wanted to reverse something like compression step jaws 150mm Wood Jaw Plates - Jaws for Axminster 100mm Chucks - Woodturners Chucks - Woodturning - Crafts & Hobbies | Axminster.co.uk

fit 4 bits of wood one on the each of the 4 jaws by the way you would need the mounting jaw as well fit them on the jaw plates first then the wood then put the jaws on your chuck mark them to the right size with a compass so they will go on your lathe cut them on the band saw then just cut them to fit your bowl
Another way if you have a bandsaw blade that will cut aluminium buy the 250mm button jaws and cut them down to size they have ring marks all the way round then about every inch so you could just follow them and they are solid aluminium so you wont lose any strength
Good luck mate
 

bluntchisel

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Hi, Phill (and Steven),
Lol! If I were capable of doing this I'd be a far better woodworker than I am, matey:down::goesred::crybaby:

Thanks for the info (and that interesting site!:thumbs:

Bob.
 

Woody

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Sorry Bob just noticed the 250mm button jaws still have a slot in them so they wont work mate
 

Neil

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Bob,

I ve got two sets of Cole or Button Jaws, one I made myself and a smaller set that is a standard Ax part, the latter is 340956 and I am sure that I have used this on my AWVSL in the dim and distant. Cant check as my small lathe is iin winter storage as its the one I turn at shows.

However, here is pics of one part of the jaws that I made myself. You'll need 910405 which have gone up ridiculously in price, a number of spare 7mm tubes, plywood, 6mm bolts, washers nuts and screws, thats about it.

Heres the pics






Here's what I did (from memory) but there are probably other ways.

1 Put a scrap bit of wood in your jaws that is about 5 inches across, turn it ever so slightly concave or flat if you're perfect.
2 Cut a disc of ply (15mm +) that is the maximum diameter that you can turn div by two, now the radius, less the jaw movement that you can achieve on your jaws, then add 10mm for fun.
3. mark the centre of the ply and draw a perfect cross passing through the middle.
4 Sub divide each sector with two further lines (that pass throught the centre) that will form the lines on which the holes will be drilled to accept the buttons as in the first photo, they shouldnt be equally spaced with the other lines but be off set so they are towards the extremes of each sector
5 Drill a pilot hole through the centre of the ply wood and having marked the centre of the scrap with a skew, screw the ply to the scrap.
6 Mark a circle on the front to show the extent of the mounting plates 340956 which will be fixed later to the back.
7 Spin the lathe and make sure the disc is perfectly circular, stop it and then mark off at appropriate intervals on one of the main axis that you previously drew, points to indicate the radii of the holes to accept the buttons. Rotate the ply by hand holding a pen against the disc to create perfect circles, I then span the lathe and held a skew flat on the rest against the marks so that the lines were indelibly inscribed on the ply, it helped locating the lip and spur drill later.
8 Take the disc off and drill the holes for the buttons.
9 Carefully cut the disc into four along the first main axis that you drew. I also numbered the segments but they should all be identical so in theory there should be no real reason.
10 Turn the segments over and place the jaw plate on the wood. Mark off the location of the two holes through which the machine screws will pass to secure the assembled plates to the chuck. remove the plates and drill an appropriate size hole so the head of the machine screw can pass through the wood to the face of the jaw plate.
11 Put the plate on the back of the button jaw segment and making sure that it is in the right place, screw it on
12 Repeat with the other segments.
13 Take a piece of hard wood such as oak and form a tube with an 18mm long section into a tapered plug in the picture, repeat a tedious eight times. In my design the brass tube extends all the way through the ply ( bar 2mm to give some room for it to be tightened) As such the holes to accept the buttons are 7mm.
14 Put it altogether and it should work no problem.
 

Neil

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Hi, Woody,
Thanks anyway, Woody! I find it strange that I can't buy Coles for my set up. Wonder why?:thinks::thinks::thinks:

Bob.

The reason is Bob that the AWSL will struggle at full capacity to turn a bowl, I tried it, perhaps through ignorance with a very dense wood and the lathe started a death waltz and whined. If the wood is nice and light you may be able to get away with it, but you will have to be careful.
 

bluntchisel

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Neil,

I have always said that you always take the trouble to respond to posts in the most informative and enlightening manner, and your reply to my query reinforces this!!! Many, many thanks for such a detailed explanation of how you overcame the bowl-reversing jaws. Strewth, it must have taken you ages to do so. I shall print what you have written for a future project.
Re the AWSL - I've turned about a dozen bowls, in various woods (including Brazilian mahogany) and have found no problem so far. This a year old now - could it be that Axminster have upgraded the model since you bought yours?

:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

Bob.
 

Neil

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Neil,

I have always said that you always take the trouble to respond to posts in the most informative and enlightening manner, and your reply to my query reinforces this!!! Many, many thanks for such a detailed explanation of how you overcame the bowl-reversing jaws. Strewth, it must have taken you ages to do so. I shall print what you have written for a future project.
Re the AWSL - I've turned about a dozen bowls, in various woods (including Brazilian mahogany) and have found no problem so far. This a year old now - could it be that Axminster have upgraded the model since you bought yours?

:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

Bob.

The button jaws wont take that long to make, a couple of hours tops. BUt as for the AWVSL, I think I might have been a bit heavy handed ans asked it to do more than it was capable. They've written it in new money on the website but I think 375W equates to 1/2 a horse power. My horse was fit for the knackers yard!
 

Grump

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Bob I dunno if these will fit, they are for the Hurricane HTC125 chuck.
Like Neil I have two sets of Cole jaws the larger set permanently on a chuck ready to go but they are on a wall that I usually cant get at and end up make a cushion pad as seen Woody do and bring the tailstock up fully extended.
 

Jim

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I can't help you Bob, but i wish you all the best .. Some very good replies here, which I hope can help you my friend.. :thumbs:
 

bluntchisel

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Hi, Brian,
Thanks for the link, mate, but no, these wouldn't fit, being too big to fit over my lathe bed.
Regards,
Bob.
 

Woody

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This is what Brian is talking about Bob a wad of paper towelling over the chuck place the bowl over the paper towelling then bring the tailstock up but you must remember to mark the centre when turning the bottom the last bit in the middle were the revolving centre went you remove after with a chisel and sand hope this helps mate it dose work Bob I do it quite often in fact I done it today with the large Ash bowl
DSCF1999.JPGDSCF2001.JPGDSCF2002.JPGDSCF2005.JPG
 

Penpal

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Neil I am totally impressed by your method, description and application for your method.

Many years ago a pro turner came to our Club and made in front of us a simple face plate of wood attached to a metal normal small face plate using a plastic funnel cut open in the centre to expose the base of the bowl bolting the funnel onto the wooden face plate using high resistance foam between the bowl and funnel turned perfect bases to remove and change the design. He used this himself for many years.

Both your method and others prove engenuity and skill can save.

The Longworth Chuck was designed and made by an Aussie so many years ago as a club we all made one the salient parts at a Saturday meeting using perspex etc plans are still on the internet somewhere. The great danger is fellas tended to go overboard making for the outboard side of the headstock enormous ones, they become a dangerous weapon. One day while we were spending time at one of the turning members home he started demoing his large Longworth by mistake starting it on full speed it went on sounded like a V2 rocket, he panicked tried to slow it down with a the hand wheel the chuck unwound flew through straight at him sliced his shirt etc he caught it sort of and cracked his sternam.

What I am trying to say is the Longworth Chuck has to be respected as a UFO with the recommended wingnuts etc a potential weapon at speed.

Please enjoy the way you turn bases with care and success.

Peter.
 
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