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One from Down Under...

Neil

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Brilliant, thanks Bob, enjoyed that.

If anyone gives that a go polish the plastic bowl with a bit of wax first, it will allow you to remove the cast easier. i used to have to polish a canoe mould before gel coating and glossing it, b. hard work without power tools!
 

Penpal

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Thats a heads up very pleasant demo by a competent woody, I am almost persuaded had a light bulb moment with what to cast as well. Dissapointed I thought I was the first to discover triple E as a lovely cutting agent for plastics on pens using a circuit board years ago the powdered pumice is effective I have to be careful with light coloured timber the ingredients sometimes darkens the timber.

If you noticed he made short work but excellent cutting in ribbons of the radiata pine that is a plantation grown pine we have masses of it growing around Canberra its quick growing hails from the West Coast of the USA originally. Kiln dried it is the basis of the home building industry over here.

What I really am sold on the real character of wood is exposed front and inside in Brendans method where plastic does not overpower, the sanding disk is larger than I use but very effective also 400 grit about standard to finish off I used to be over the top going to 2000 wet and dry then 0000 steel wool ah progress. I know also David Lim only goes to 400 with his pens and I have examples of his work its brilliant.

Thanks again Bob great to hear a modest competent guy demistify in such a short time so many of the methods to acheive something different, no frills just as it is fairly typical of the average Aussie bloke.

Kind regards Peter.:iknow::claps::phew:
 

bluntchisel

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Thanks for the comments, guys - I reckon Brendan may start a few exploratory attempts on this site in view of what he has done in the vid. I've got about 5 pints of clear resin somewhere in the workshop. Would this need a hardener mixed with it to achieve what this guy has done?

Bob.
 

rowdyyates115

It's Showtime.....
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Thanks for the comments, guys - I reckon Brendan may start a few exploratory attempts on this site in view of what he has done in the vid. I've got about 5 pints of clear resin somewhere in the workshop. Would this need a hardener mixed with it to achieve what this guy has done?

Bob.

Yes it will Bob, do you have the manf' name, if you have it wouldn't take much to find out the recommended mix required - temp.. etc etc...:thumbs:
 

bluntchisel

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Hi, Rowdy,

Thanks for the info - I've got no idea how to use this as I bought it for a project years ago (never started!) and the resin came in a plastic container. I've just found the hardener - dried out!
This guy makes setting up the bowl, plug and off-cuts look easy in the vid but I can see problems looming for the unaware - yeah, ME! One thing to be sure of is getting that plug seated in the exact centre of the bowl. Failure to do this will result in having one side of the bowl (including inside) being turned unevenly, thus removing more resin in that area compared to the other. This will result in losing more resin on one side, therefore revealing more wood, whereas on the other side a lot of the wood will still be covered in resin. Does this make sense?

Bob.
 

PhillH

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One thing to be sure of is getting that plug seated in the exact centre of the bowl. Failure to do this will result in having one side of the bowl (including inside) being turned unevenly, thus removing more resin in that area compared to the other. This will result in losing more resin on one side, therefore revealing more wood, whereas on the other side a lot of the wood will still be covered in resin. Does this make sense?
Bob.
Not to me, as surely it's the same as any blank, the first thing that you'd do would be true it up externally and then you're good to go and it will be even wall thickness when you hollow out.

Or did I miss something ? :bwink:
 

bluntchisel

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Hi, Phill,
Errr...what I'm trying to say is, once dried, if there is more material on one side of the plug because it was not centralised, when the bowl is mounted it will have to be turned until an even wall thickness is reached. This is standard lathe practice, of course. But turning off more material than would otherwise be necessary will result in a smaller bowl, and probably a much thinner skin of resin, with the off-cuts on one side being larger (because, they too will have been chiseled). I think, what I'm basically trying to say is that there will be more wood exposed on one side than the other. With the cost of resin being what it is, why have to chisel more off than need be?

Bob.
 

Grump

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Make you right Bob tat makes sense to me.
Probably helped by making all your pieces the same size for your first bowl.
 

Penpal

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I followed this man via Google he lives on a rural property out of Melbourne in Victoria about 400 miles from where I live bit like London to Edinburgh, he has affiliations in various places with great skill in unusual off centre turning etc as well. Like any venture his stated simplicity is in keeping with anyone familiar with a process that is for him tried and true for him to share with us IMHO is very generous. I tried to call him it went to some form of phone/fax but I will talk to him sometime to tell him how impressed I am with his work, quite refreshing without any of the hoopla normally found in vids etc very openfaced.

Peter.
 

rowdyyates115

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Hi, Rowdy,

Thanks for the info - I've got no idea how to use this as I bought it for a project years ago (never started!) and the resin came in a plastic container. I've just found the hardener - dried out!
This guy makes setting up the bowl, plug and off-cuts look easy in the vid but I can see problems looming for the unaware - yeah, ME! One thing to be sure of is getting that plug seated in the exact centre of the bowl. Failure to do this will result in having one side of the bowl (including inside) being turned unevenly, thus removing more resin in that area compared to the other. This will result in losing more resin on one side, therefore revealing more wood, whereas on the other side a lot of the wood will still be covered in resin. Does this make sense?

Bob.


Hi Bob.
Yes I got your point but I think I know how he gets around it.
All the scrap wood he lines the bowl with is all the same thickness so it wouldn't take to much effort to make the plug to fit nicely. Then by getting the plug level by eye in the bowl and taping it down before pouring the resin should be sufficent 'methinks'
I don't think you would get to much wobble initially... Hopefully.... So you wouldn't turn it to uneven.

I am going to have to give this a go sometime, his bowls sure look the biz....:thinks::thinks:
 
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