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Using a draw bar on my pillar drill.

Penpal

Grand Master
Joined
May 26, 2013
Posts
25,340
Location
Canberra AUSTRALIA
First Name
Peter
When I bought my drill press thirty years ago I took note on an engineering site from users of a mill drill which is a big fat version of a bench drill.

Step 1 get the motor from overseas give it the drop test in the big bin, replace it with a three phase larger one of in my case Aussie manufacture. This I did.

Step 2. Make a draw bar and ensure all chucks fit to a draw bar so I made a draw bar from threaded rod and locknutted it to the sliding quill the quill slides up and down on splines.

Step 3. Replace the bearings with quality bearings again the drop test with the old bearings.

Step 4. The quill lock is made with two flat pieces of metal replace these with half moon pieces of metal thereby giving a real locking effort.

Go over the guides and slides and fine tune the movements, there were many more hints I used them all that long ago.

Then when the chuck flew of my pillar drill I was in luck it missed me so I applied the first Step 1. fitted a one HP Aussie Motor to the drill.

Used step 2 from above and fitted a 3/8 inch draw bar to a new chuck stem locknutted on my quill has a splined drive shaft as well. So many times I have repeated this when guys say what to look for in a new drill press.

Step 3 chucked the bearings and replaced them with quality bearings.

Spent real time squaring the table and drill movements to vertical and parallel.

Now umpteen thousands of uses later both are still serving me well.

Just a few safety thoughts I have applied to my machinery I tend to dedicate a machine to a few different tasks that are compatable.

Kind regards Peter.:thumbs:
 

Penpal

Grand Master
Joined
May 26, 2013
Posts
25,340
Location
Canberra AUSTRALIA
First Name
Peter
David I did give that some thought but a lot of it is inside the quill etc a draw bar is simply a threaded rod and locknuts etc. Any quill that uses a tapered drift to dislodge the chuck is the clue if the above will apply as a quick guide. Guess this was my cheap answer to buying engineering quality gear that can cost out of sight and out of my price range hence these days even little Taig Lathes have cult following and whole sites dedicated to enthusiasts. The best source of real info can be to join model engineering groups all of my thoughts are expressed freely and should be able to be seen in practice with them.

On my VL100 wood lathe I use a locknutted draw bar to the collet chuck for pens and the lathes sole purpose is pens I have others. I do not drill pen blanks on the wood lathe (my choice).

On my Hercus Metal Lathe I drill happily with care a great variety of materials and use a draw bar with collets for real accuracy (real for me ie). In our several public libraries while waiting for SWMBO I read many different articles from Model Engineering to Wood Magazines I gave away buying them after accumulating so many. Our Wood Guild has had their subscription magazines bound in year groups. Never will I comprehend the cost variations with Wood Lathes v Metal Lathes in real accuracy and finish.

In answer to your question I would have time in the future to photograph lots of happy things that make my workshop a pleasure to be in and so far since I joined last year have done.

Just reached a crossroad in my life with major decisions about down sizing before Wilma is forced to my main workshop is roughly 30 metres by 3 plus wide in sections chockers full I have bought innumerable machines and modified every one to suit my needs. I crave three phase motors for real smooth operation and torque out here in towns not possible until the last few years with the use now of inverters anyone can have them using basic single phase.

Kind regards Peter.
 
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