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Aluminite pre-heating molds - does anyone here do it?

paulloseby

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Reading the instructions for the Aluminite Water Clear, it says "Always warm your molds to approximately 125 degrees F before pouring. New addition silicone rubber molds should be baked at 250 degrees for 6 to 8 hours before pouring water clear into the mold.

That does seem a hell of a time and temperature. Do you casters in the UK do that? I did try but the oven works in C. Fortunately I caught it before ruining the mold but 6-8 hours at 250F seems a very long time.

Paul
 

Buckeye

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Reading the instructions for the Aluminite Water Clear, it says "Always warm your molds to approximately 125 degrees F before pouring. New addition silicone rubber molds should be baked at 250 degrees for 6 to 8 hours before pouring water clear into the mold.

That does seem a hell of a time and temperature. Do you casters in the UK do that? I did try but the oven works in C. Fortunately I caught it before ruining the mold but 6-8 hours at 250F seems a very long time.

Paul
I don't use silicone moulds and I haven't used Alumilite in many years, long before I was casting pen blanks. I do warm my moulds by putting them in the BBQ, unlit I might add. I only cast when it is warm and sunny and the BBQ gets quite warm and so do the moulds, but I have to say I have never noticed any difference for PR if I warm the mould or not, still it doesn't cost anything to pop them in the BBQ.

Peter
 

kjmc1957

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Hi All

I know nothing about this, but then again there's lots of things I know nothing about but it's never stopped me having something to say about it, here goes: couldn't you warm the molds in a hot water bath for a while, would it harm the mold materiel?

Regards
Kevin
 

Buckeye

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Moulds need to be 100% dry on the inside, that's why I put them in the sun in the BBQ. Moisture is bad for resin. It wouldn't harm the mould if it was in hot water.

Peter
 

Jim

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I have never used Aluminite Paul, so can't help with your question, but i agree that the length of time in which you speak does seem excessive ..

I have used PR many times but never warmed up either the tubes or moulds that i have used to cast in ...
 

brody2123

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Never heated any for that long Paul, that is excessive. To be fair, as long as the ambient isn't cold, you shouldn't have any problems. You could also put your mixing cups in a tray of warm water whilst mixing in the catalyst/pigment etc.
All the best

Brody:thumbs:
 

Grump

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Think about what you are doing and why you are doing it.
I rarely comment on plastics because of the fact there are so many overnight experts and so much misled info available.

You people are H&S disaster areas but if you must play with pretty patterns then think before acting.
What is the application and aim????

If you are extruding surgical tubing then yes you must adhere strictly to the correct practices, sterilizing, preheating / cooking.
Moisture and air content is critical both can damage the over engineered machinery and or the patient and ruin any thermo setting plastics.

If you are forming, then preheating is only required for the creation of the form, both the material and former should be heated to the point where the material becomes flexible enough to create the form.
This only requires the temperature to be right regardless of the time taken to heat it, basically you are bending thermo formed plastic not roasting a Sunday joint.

You are doing neither of these you are using a chemically setting epoxy resin which is a different form of plastic altogether, do not confuse the issue and read the correct instructions which will come with the product.
Just because it is written on the web it doesn't mean it's correct.
A whole industry has sprung up over the last few decades of the diy kit probably started by the car repair (Halfords) thing of body fillers etc, people are taking dangerous and potentially lethal chemicals into their homes.
Resins are nothing new, Galleons were put together with cascamite which is the first (to my knowledge) resin mix.

Your application of these products is neither essential nor critical, what does it matter if it has a bubble of air or water in it?
Why does it have to set in 5 minutes instead of 5 hours?
What are the consequences of a ruined pour? Bin it and do another one.
Who are you harming? Everyone around you and yourself, read the H&S sheet that comes with the product.

The chemical reaction that occurs during the curing process of your product, generates enough heat to make a long preheating process irrelevant, in anything other than extreme temperature changes should answer your original question.

You will continue with this foolhardy experiment, so my tip for you is when mixing use an L shaped stirrer and stir under the liquid will produce no or less air bubbles.

2910.jpg
 

Buckeye

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You are doing neither of these you are using a chemically setting epoxy resin which is a different form of plastic altogether, do not confuse the issue and read the correct instructions which will come with the product.

Paul said it was the instructions for Alumilite. It seems a bit extreme, but that is the manufacturers instructions.

Reading the instructions for the Aluminite Water Clear, it says "Always warm your molds to approximately 125 degrees F before pouring. New addition silicone rubber molds should be baked at 250 degrees for 6 to 8 hours before pouring water clear into the mold.

That does seem a hell of a time and temperature. Do you casters in the UK do that? I did try but the oven works in C. Fortunately I caught it before ruining the mold but 6-8 hours at 250F seems a very long time.

Paul

Just because it is written on the web it doesn't mean it's correct.

Ain't that the truth. There's a load of rowlocks on loads of sites.

Peter
 

Grump

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I am only trying to help, if the manufacturers give explicit instructions to do something then don't cry if you don't follow them init?
If you disagree or want an explanation, take it up with them.
They have the reasons, the explanations and the test results, I can't believe anyone would launch a product without having first tested it.
 

scouseroy

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I was using water clear resin last year to make paperweights,I never warmed the moulds but always followed the instructions and carefully measured the resin and hardener exactly as the instructions advised and never had any problems I have ordered some more now to try and make a couple of blanks will show if they turn out ok
 

Buckeye

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I am only trying to help, if the manufacturers give explicit instructions to do something then don't cry if you don't follow them init?
If you disagree or want an explanation, take it up with them.
They have the reasons, the explanations and the test results, I can't believe anyone would launch a product without having first tested it.

Paul should really go to the Alumilite site as they have a wealth of information and videos. Probably one of the best people to contact is Curtis on AIP he has made videos for Alumilite on mixing, in fact I just watched one and he didn't heat the mould unless he did it off camera, but I doubt it, mind you that wasn't a silicone mould.

Peter
 

paulloseby

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Many thanks for all of your help. In fact Aluminite have come back and just suggested that I just preheat the moulds to 120 degrees F and that will be fine. I can't think why they say the 6-8 hours. I must admit that I didn't expect the reaction from Grump. I can only think that if he is married, he must be hell to live with. If he's single, perhaps there is a reason! Anyway thank you all - I really do appreciate your help.

Regards

Paul
 

Grump

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Reaction? What reaction? Have I said something that has been taken notice of?
Well there is a first time for everything I spose init?
Glad you got an explanation from the manufacturer, enjoy your pretty patterns.
 

Jim

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Many thanks for all of your help. In fact Aluminite have come back and just suggested that I just preheat the moulds to 120 degrees F and that will be fine. I can't think why they say the 6-8 hours. I must admit that I didn't expect the reaction from Grump. I can only think that if he is married, he must be hell to live with. If he's single, perhaps there is a reason! Anyway thank you all - I really do appreciate your help.

Regards

Paul

Don't worry about Grumps Paul, he likes to make us think he doesn't like plastic ..:winking:
 
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