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Drilling Pen Blanks on the Lathe Tutorial

bellringer

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Could I ask if you say there is no need to hold the drill chuck in the tail stock why in the first picture of page 5 are you holding the chuck?


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Walter

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Could I ask if you say there is no need to hold the drill chuck in the tail stock why in the first picture of page 5 are you holding the chuck?


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If you read the text above that photograph you will see that I recommend holding the chuck as the bit is withdrawn to prevent it from being pulled out of the tailstock.

and I quote: "As noted above, holding the chuck lightly once the bit is disengaged from cutting in case it catches in the hole and is pulled out of the tailstock is in my opinion perfectly safe and sensible."

What is with people trying to score points off me on this forum. :nonono:
 

bellringer

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If you read the text above that photograph you will see that I recommend holding the chuck as the bit is withdrawn to prevent it from being pulled out of the tailstock.

and I quote: "As noted above, holding the chuck lightly once the bit is disengaged from cutting in case it catches in the hole and is pulled out of the tailstock is in my opinion perfectly safe and sensible."

What is with people trying to score points off me on this forum. :nonono:

Ok missed that bit

On the matter of drilling on the lathe is with a drill chuck it has the flat on the end which Is there to stop the problem of the chuck spinning I don't see why makes of wood lathes have not taken to making tail stock quills like metal working lathes it a much safer system


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Woody

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I'm going to have a good look now and see if I can score some Walter points LOL :thumbs::thumbs: only kidding mate :winking:
 

Walter

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Ok missed that bit

On the matter of drilling on the lathe is with a drill chuck it has the flat on the end which Is there to stop the problem of the chuck spinning I don't see why makes of wood lathes have not taken to making tail stock quills like metal working lathes it a much safer system

That would be a good idea. I cannot think of any circumstance where the Morse taper needs to be free to revolve.


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bellringer

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That would be a good idea. I cannot think of any circumstance where the Morse taper needs to be free to revolve.


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[/QUOTE]

I can't either and if you did you would just make it with out the flats


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Buckeye

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Walter, when you post to a public forum you have to expect this, your posts are legible and well articulated, maybe that's the problem, you need to learn to speak txttork for the less fortunate:thumbs:

Two nice quotes that might help....or not:kiss:

Let me never fall into the vulgar mistake of dreaming that I am persecuted whenever I am contradicted.

Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they aren't after you.

Peter
 

Walter

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I'm going to have a good look now and see if I can score some Walter points LOL :thumbs::thumbs: only kidding mate :winking:

I think Alex might have got in early and read the original version I put up. In that one the picture of me holding the chuck came before the text explaining why. I changed it round to make it clearer.

Feel free to comment on any errors and omissions. Points will be awarded but there will be no prizes. :funny::funny:

Walter, when you post to a public forum you have to expect this, your posts are legible and well articulated, maybe that's the problem, you need to learn to speak txttork for the less fortunate:thumbs:

Two nice quotes that might help....or not:kiss:

Let me never fall into the vulgar mistake of dreaming that I am persecuted whenever I am contradicted.

Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they aren't after you.

Peter

Thank you Peter, you are too kind. I know they are after me, the voices in my head told me . :funny::funny:
 

Vic Perrin

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Well all I can say Walter is that if anyone can't drill a hole using the lathe safely after that tutorial they shouldn't be turning at all.

:thumbs:Vic:thumbs:
 

Louie_Powell

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Excellent discussion!

Suggest two points:
1. Timbers with pronounced grain patterns typically don't have homogenous hardness - there are hardness variations between portions of the wood that grew during warm weather, and the portions that grew during colder weather. And if the drill bit is advanced into the blank too quickly, it will tend to follow the grain pattern staying in the softer wood. So it is critical that the tailstock quill is advanced slowly so that the point of the drill can actually cut a straight hole for the drill to follow.
2. You make a good point about the necessity of backing the bit out of the blank to clear the swarf. Allowing swarf to accumulate in the flutes of the bit increases the friction that causes heat. But the nature of the timber has a role here - the swarf from oily woods such as cocobolo will clump into a hard mass in the drill bit flutes far more rapidly than will be the case from dry, brittle woods. As a result, the more oily the wood, the less depth one can drill without clearing the swarf. With extremely oily woods (or if a lubricant us used when drilling), it may be necessary to pick the hardened swarf out of the flutes with an awl.
 

Jim

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Thanks for this Walter, with your permission i would like to add this to the tutorial page .. :thumbs:
 

Dalboy

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Thank you Walter. I already drill on the lathe anyway but it is nice to read how others do it and hopefully pick up a few tips along the way.
 

Penpal

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Walter thankyou for your presentation I firmly practice using a drawbar where possible with anything held in a morse taper and also believe a great gap exists in woodlathe manufacture and metal lathes noting at this time most every machine has its great features and weak ones.

Recently I had the most wonderful experience of finding on the U Beaut Site in Australia a fellow enthusiast in manufacture who custom built a mandrel saver of superior quality for me it is a first for me as he exceeded every phase in the making at a reasonable cost. I also noted recently that the makers of Vicmarc Lathes has made and market a device such as you have illustrated in your demo.

Louie you hit the nail on the head with your detailed thoughts on timber variations confirming also that there are so many ways experience makes you familiar with these things your explanation is great, one thing to experience these things reinforcement comes with the why.

Jim if there is a regret on our forum it is the inability to scroll and revue as you comment on a posting so pics are able to be viewed is it a biggie to enable this feature mate?

Walter your approach to this most vital aspect in pen making made good reading. I personally rarely use the lathe for drilling blanks as I find it more convenient and much faster to use a dedicated bench drill set up I suppose the way I cut a lot of blanks to acheive the grain structure I seek gripping the blank my way has proved the best for me. Yesterday all the blanks I received some two hundred I could have drilled in one session using dedicated gear easily without setting up draw bars, chucks etc my drill press chuch is captive using a draw bar as well.

Every time I see people use their hands to steady and secure a drill chuck on a lathe I understand why the ideal is a draw bar fitted to the chuck in the tail stock and I am aware of the mechanics of this. To me the best world is lathes for turning Drill presses for drilling blanks etc.

All observations very impressed by your demistifying the versatility of a Wood Lathe. I like your presentations.

Kind regards Peter.
 

Walter

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Thanks for all comments everyone.

Jim you are more than welcome to add it to the tutorial page.

Peter, I also use a pillar drill for a lot of my drilling, but drilling on the lathe is useful for demo's and for people who don't have a pillar drill. For years I used an electric drill in a drill stand and that worked well enough too.
 

Penpal

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Thanks for all comments everyone.

Jim you are more than welcome to add it to the tutorial page.

Peter, I also use a pillar drill for a lot of my drilling, but drilling on the lathe is useful for demo's and for people who don't have a pillar drill. For years I used an electric drill in a drill stand and that worked well enough too.

Walter I believe a great number of Pen Turners drill on the lathe almost all the time and with the numbers of new turners your coverage was excellent and informative indeed. Thanks are due to you for the considerable effort you put into the tutorial, I join with the thankful.

Kind regards Peter.:thumbs:
 
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