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Cervus canadensis

Les ELm

Executive Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2014
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5,493
Location
Red Deer, Alberta, Canada
First Name
Les
Antler finished with 6 coats of Med CA and polished with Hut Ultra Gloss.
Black Titanium/Platinum Elegant Beauty Sierra components.

Les
 

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Neil

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Hitchin, Hertfordshire
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Neil
Very nice, it looks as though elk antler has more character than our domestic deer, although having eaten both I prefer deer.

Les, why did you feel the need to finish off with the Hut? Does ca not give a great finish on antler, never turned it myself after stories of the smell of various animal horn and never thought that the end justified the effort but these look good.
 

silver

General dogsbody
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Eamonn.
Very nice Les, nicely finished and photographed..

You got me thinking now, I have some antler in the cave that I will have to get turning..
 

Penpal

Grand Master
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May 26, 2013
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Location
Canberra AUSTRALIA
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Peter
The best of that product I have seen there has been a blush of colour etc but these are full on .Top turning and Pictures Les.

Kind regards Peter.:noway1::whistler:
 

paulm

grave manibus faciendum
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Sandford
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Paul
Very nice, it looks as though elk antler has more character than our domestic deer, although having eaten both I prefer deer.

Why is deer antler more tasty than elk antler? :funny:

Lovely blanks there Les. :thumbs:
 

Les ELm

Executive Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2014
Posts
5,493
Location
Red Deer, Alberta, Canada
First Name
Les
Very nice, it looks as though elk antler has more character than our domestic deer, although having eaten both I prefer deer.

Les, why did you feel the need to finish off with the Hut? Does ca not give a great finish on antler, never turned it myself after stories of the smell of various animal horn and never thought that the end justified the effort but these look good.

Neil,
I find that CA alone dose not give a great finish so I just polish it up a bit.

Les
 

Neil

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Hitchin, Hertfordshire
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Neil
Neil,
I find that CA alone dose not give a great finish so I just polish it up a bit.

Les

Interesting. There are tow principle schools of thought/practice on this forum, the Micromesh camp and the Farecla finishers. Personally I go for micromesh sheets as opposed to the foam backed stuff, what regime do you use before you top it up with hut?
 

Jim

Grand Master
Joined
Oct 19, 2011
Posts
15,617
Got to admit that these are some of the best antler i have seen on a pen .. :thumbs:
 

Les ELm

Executive Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2014
Posts
5,493
Location
Red Deer, Alberta, Canada
First Name
Les
Interesting. There are tow principle schools of thought/practice on this forum, the Micromesh camp and the Farecla finishers. Personally I go for micromesh sheets as opposed to the foam backed stuff, what regime do you use before you top it up with hut?

Neil,

Over the past 10 years of experimenting with pen blank finishing I found that Micromesh was a waste of money and time.

After turning wood, antler or acrylic, with the lathe running I sand with 400 grit only, buff with extra fine steel wool. l then sand and buff laterally with the lathe off, then I apply my finish to the wood or antler.

The only time I use CA as a finish is on antler.
After turning I apply Med CA with the lathe off to fill all the pores.
Next I turn down the Med CA, sand 400 grit only, buff with extra fine steel wool and polish with hut Ultra Gloss.
I find I can get as good a finish as Micromesh with less time a money.

Regards,
Les
 

Neil

Fellow
Joined
May 21, 2013
Posts
3,132
Location
Hitchin, Hertfordshire
First Name
Neil
Neil,

Over the past 10 years of experimenting with pen blank finishing I found that Micromesh was a waste of money and time.

After turning wood, antler or acrylic, with the lathe running I sand with 400 grit only, buff with extra fine steel wool. l then sand and buff laterally with the lathe off, then I apply my finish to the wood or antler.

The only time I use CA as a finish is on antler.
After turning I apply Med CA with the lathe off to fill all the pores.
Next I turn down the Med CA, sand 400 grit only, buff with extra fine steel wool and polish with hut Ultra Gloss.
I find I can get as good a finish as Micromesh with less time a money.

Regards,
Les

I get results that I am very pleased with using micromesh after the glue, however, the revs must be right otherwise it can be hard work. Agree that Micromesh can be expensive but I get very long use out of the sheets, hate the foam backed squares, they tend to burn easily. I only sand lathe stationery.

Why do you Sand and buff, and then go back to sanding? Isnt the buffing in between a waste of time in that you are going to destroy the benefits with the paper in the next step?
 

silver

General dogsbody
Executive Member
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Jun 29, 2013
Posts
6,301
Location
Somewhere in Staffordshire,
First Name
Eamonn.
I use W&D 600 to 2500 then MM sheet to 12000, don't use the foam back rubish.

Use MM on stationary lathe laterly the. Polish with Ren wax.
 

Jimjam66

Chief Battonager
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Joined
Jan 27, 2013
Posts
3,775
Location
Basingstoke, Hampshire
Very nice, Les. Glad to find a fellow four-ought steel wool aficionado. I don't hold to using MM either, mostly because I'm too cheap!

:devil:

Subject to correction I think your 400 grit equates to our (European) 800 grit? I recall some discrepancy but not abso sure now?

:nooidea:
 
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