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Castin resin

brody2123

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Well, our Peter is probably the best on to answer this, but I think you can use polyester or one of the cold casting resins like Alumilite. From what I've seen, Alumilite seem to be the best bet for hybrid blanks. But I'm sure someone has a better idea.:thumbs:
 

brody2123

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I think the wood element also needs to be stabilised and thinking about it, pe might not be the best choice as it shrinks as it cures so it may separate from the wood :thinks: you've got me thinking now
 

Buckeye

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If you have American roots then you can only use Alumilite nothing else will do. I have used really dry un-stabilised and punky wood with PE resin, but I warmed up the wood in the oven before pouring the resin on it seems to pull the resin into the wood. When it is de-moulded I stabilised the wood with CA and continued using CA during turning.

I was given lots of burr off-cuts and people in the club wanted hybrid blanks so I used Polyurethane resin which is expensive and sold them for £10.00 per blank I have no problem using PE resin for them, but if I am making them for sale then I use PU.

Peter
 

Buckeye

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I've got a couple of elm burrs Peter is going to do his magic on :thumbs:

I am sorry Chas, I haven't drawn up the cut marks I will definitely do it this week-end and I will be using PU on yours as it is too cold for me to use PE at the moment.

Peter
 

turnaround360

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You can use vibration to release the air pressure to compress it and vac to expand it but you can cast just on its own it depends on the viscosity of the resin.
 

Buckeye

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Do you need a vacuum pot to do this kind thing?

No, but for PU it is better in a pressure pot, PE will be fine without pressure.

Peter
 

Buckeye

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A vacuum chamber will try to pull all the air out of the resin, but if you have wood in there as well it will be pulling the air out of the wood and will pull it through the resin, this is what you do when you stabilise wood and when you have taken all the air out of the wood and open the vacuum pot the stabilising solution will be drawn into the wood, but resin is far too thick for that.

With a pressure pot you are trying to decrease the size of any air bubbles so that they will not be significant and to get resin into any crevices.

PE resin doesn't need to be pressurised although it won't hurt it, PE is thin enough and has a long working time to get rid of the bubbles with vibration. PU has a short working time usually around 4-6 minutes and it is thicker than PE resin so will be harder to get rid of the air bubbles, that's why pressure for PU is better.

Peter
 

chas_41_uk

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I am sorry Chas, I haven't drawn up the cut marks I will definitely do it this week-end and I will be using PU on yours as it is too cold for me to use PE at the moment.

That's OK Peter. I thought it was down to workload when I saw your comment about running out of time for the Omega challenge.
 

Penpal

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Dan Les in Canada is a master caster and has provided articles in the library on the IAP his great strength is his immaculate approach to this and every aspect consider where he lives the extremes in temperatures etc. I noted particularly his most ecomomic temp controller made in a bucket with cheap components allows him to operate through the seasons. Of course local knowledge where to buy etc in your own country is essential sometimes I feel the restrictive taxing systems in the UK make it an expensive proposition. In the Uk George who makes blanks, sells them combining timber and plastics is also an El Supremo George Watkind ie.

Have fun on the way mate.

peter.:thumbs:
 

Buckeye

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PR shrinks less if it is filled, Alumilite shrinks, but only by a minute amount.

Peter
 
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