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Ebonite to wood glue?

PensFromNo11

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As I continue my foray into kitless pen making I've discovered how easy it is to tap and thread ebonite.
I would like to make a wood sleeved pen with mabe the internals being ebonite, but can you successfully glue them together? if so what type of glue is best?
Thanks for any advice - Darren
 

flexi

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mark
As above, a good epoxy will work.... Don't be tempted by CA, it will stick half way out if your not quick enough or tight tolerances :bwink:
 

PensFromNo11

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I would suggest a good 2-part epoxy for this.
Cheers
Ash
Thank you, I wasn't sure if ebonite would glue well to another material.
I did try 2 part epoxy on an acrylic sleeved cap i tried - it failed, possibly because it was a little thin and I had too adjust (redrill) the depth, but I also noticed the epoxy got warm and the acrylic let go from the wood. So I'm worried if I shape a wood sleeve close to the ebonite internals once its glued up would that generate enough heat to upset the epoxy again? or do you just take it really easy?
 

ValleyBoy

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Thank you, I wasn't sure if ebonite would glue well to another material.
I did try 2 part epoxy on an acrylic sleeved cap i tried - it failed, possibly because it was a little thin and I had too adjust (redrill) the depth, but I also noticed the epoxy got warm and the acrylic let go from the wood. So I'm worried if I shape a wood sleeve close to the ebonite internals once it’s glued up would that generate enough heat to upset the epoxy again? or do you just take it really easy?
Yes you will be fine. Ebonite is used by a lot of pen makers for lining wooden pens, I’ve even done it myself but I don’t use it any more as I favour acrylic. But the principle is the same.
One thing you want to make sure is the gap between the liner and the sleeve isn’t too tight, meaning the glue has no room to settle, but also not too large to create cavities that won’t have the required integrity. Both these scenarios are prone to result in failure.

If you compare what you’re doing to kit pens it’s very similar although you don’t have the benefit of having the pre-sized brass tubes that are designed for specific drill sizes. So you need to work out what size insert works with what size wooden sleeve to give you a decent wall thickness for the wood and also fits snugly enough for the glue to work.
[Hint: look at a pen kit and the associated bushings (if you have them) and you could use that as a starting point for your own design dimensions…]
 

DuncSuss

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Another vote for good quality 2-part epoxy. I avoid the "quick cure" versions, because in my experience they don't fully cure any quicker than the 24-hour version, they just have a much shorter working time. The biggest mistake I've made with epoxied parts is not waiting 24 hours to begin stressing the glue joint.

I also leave a few tool marks on the ebonite parts that will be hidden in the sleeves - adds a little extra mechanical grip when the epoxy sets.
 

PensFromNo11

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Yes you will be fine. Ebonite is used by a lot of pen makers for lining wooden pens, I’ve even done it myself but I don’t use it any more as I favour acrylic. But the principle is the same.
One thing you want to make sure is the gap between the liner and the sleeve isn’t too tight, meaning the glue has no room to settle, but also not too large to create cavities that won’t have the required integrity. Both these scenarios are prone to result in failure.

If you compare what you’re doing to kit pens it’s very similar although you don’t have the benefit of having the pre-sized brass tubes that are designed for specific drill sizes. So you need to work out what size insert works with what size wooden sleeve to give you a decent wall thickness for the wood and also fits snugly enough for the glue to work.
[Hint: look at a pen kit and the associated bushings (if you have them) and you could use that as a starting point for your own design dimensions…]
Cheers, very helpful
I'm enjoying the process of discovery with almost all of my workshop time tinkering down the kitless route at the moment - although no full pens to show for it yet.
 

PensFromNo11

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Darren
Another question regarding Ebonite - if I were to leave a collar of ebonite that would be on show once the the pen is shaped could I finish it as I would the wood? Normally I would finish wood in melamine or ca and I know ebonite is finished as you would acrylic, so can I finish the ebonite the same as the wood (the easy option) or do I need to finish separately?
 

DuncSuss

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I've had mixed results putting a CA finish over ebonite, particularly on parts that are handled frequently (thinking the cap and the nib section). Eventually it began to separate and flake off. Low-contact parts (such as the clip finial) didn't seem to have this problem.
 

PensFromNo11

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Darren
I've had mixed results putting a CA finish over ebonite, particularly on parts that are handled frequently (thinking the cap and the nib section). Eventually it began to separate and flake off. Low-contact parts (such as the clip finial) didn't seem to have this problem.
thanks Duncan
I've got collars on both the cap and body (see photo) this is just practice so maybe ill try finishing them differently and see how they are after a lot of heavy handling.
 

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