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Metal Keeper Rings for Bespoke Pens - Help?

Gregory Hardy

Graduate Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2017
Posts
454
Location
Upper New York State
First Name
Greg
Good morning, all. I am in writing to pick the brains of those working without kits.

I want to be able to add metal rings to the bodies and caps of my fountain pens. I have done turned contrasting rings by boring the cap, making a tenon on another piece to insert, and then adding contrasting material between to create a stripe (often all ebonite and acrylic). I am interested in using metal rings (a'la the 30s and 40s Parker pens for example) and have found places to buy them. Unlike my normal process, they appear to have been slid onto the parts after turning - "cut a groove for the ring and slide it on after sanding and polishing,"...but my little brain can't picture the process unless shrinking the turned part or lubrication is used.

Anyone want to take pity on this soul (that has been losing sleep over the possibilities) and share a secret or two? I appreciate any help anyone might offer.

Merry Christmas, all.
-Greg
 

Phil Dart

Moderator
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Nov 28, 2014
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Colebrooke, Devon
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Phil
Hmmm. It sounds a bit like one of those irritating puzzles that fall out of Christmas crackers.

Are you not over thinking it a bit Greg? I'm not sure there is a way of sliding something of a smaller i/d over a pen barrel to locate in a grove after turning. On such relatively small diameters, neither lubrication or heat would make any discernible difference. In any case, heat would probably destroy the groove it's intended to slot into. The only two ways I can think of achieving the appearance is to either use the "3-piece, tenon in" approach, which you've already described anyway, or by segmenting a metal disk into the blank before you start to turn it, in a blank-metal-blank sandwich.

I suppose you could employ a jewelers approach and fit in an open ring, which you then solder and make good, but that seems a little hit and miss to me. I'd be going for the segmented approach I think, with a good choice of glue - probably 8hr two part epoxy, and a good set of clamps. - Or the tenon approach you've already used. Tenons can locate into finials and other components - they don't necessarily have to be part of the component which then locates into the barrel. They are often less detectable that way, which may be what's putting you wrong as you try to work out how commercial pens are made.
 

Gregory Hardy

Graduate Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2017
Posts
454
Location
Upper New York State
First Name
Greg
Thanks, Tony (and all). This video as a picture coupled with the following link for explanation and I have learned something:

Shearing my method for capring "swaging" - Repair Q&A - The Fountain Pen Network

Peter was right. "The way ahead is clearer." It is clear that I have a long way to go before I try this process! The tenon idea has worked for me, so I will probably forge on in that direction. The only problem with that (and one solved by swaging the ring on) is that grain or coloration doesn't match on each side of the metal ring. Swaging looks easy enough; I need only spend a small fortune on equipment. What's the problem? (That was rhetorical. The "problem" is the jewel-without-a-flaw-to-whom-I-am-married. I don't anticipate a positive response when I tell her I need a good collet system...and a better lathe on which to mount it. She's not very big, but she packs a mean punch.)

Worry not, gents. Where I lack in knowledge, I make up for it in stick-to-it-iveness, and I will figure this out! Two hundred, fifty kit pens in three months for shows. Time to go into the shop and get back to solving a problem that has been haunting since August!

Merry Christmas. I count the kindness and support shown by the people on this forum among my personal blessings.
 

Gregory Hardy

Graduate Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2017
Posts
454
Location
Upper New York State
First Name
Greg
"Tenons can locate into finials and other components - they don't necessarily have to be part of the component which then locates into the barrel. They are often less detectable that way, which may be what's putting you wrong as you try to work out how commercial pens are made."

That solved my "grain alignment" problem...
...Bore and then part off material so grains match.
...Bore a contrasting material.
...Insert a hidden tenon throughout, inserting the contrasting material...really just an "internal sleeve" that extends into the remain cap material. Measurements just need to allow for internal threads in the sleeve. I think you meant something else, but you pushed the button that made me brain go.

Two points for Phil.
 

Penpal

Grand Master
Joined
May 26, 2013
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25,340
Location
Canberra AUSTRALIA
First Name
Peter
Concentration is not only the name of a game but vital in all things turning.Gregory two hundred fifty pens takes you well out of the casual to serious penmaker. Thanks for sharing and your membership.

Peter.
 

Gregory Hardy

Graduate Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2017
Posts
454
Location
Upper New York State
First Name
Greg
Concentration is not only the name of a game but vital in all things turning.Gregory two hundred fifty pens takes you well out of the casual to serious penmaker. Thanks for sharing and your membership.

Peter.

I spent the entire summer fooling around in "the world of bespoke." Then I realized in late August that we were going to four Christmas shows and my tables were going to look a little bare. Twenty-five nearly every weekend thereafter. Your "concentration theme" rings true; I need to concentrate on making more throughout the year so that I am not in this position next autumn! I am going to treat myself to some time working on this kitless project first. Thanks for the kind words, Peter.
 
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