Problems with my drill setup

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Thread: Problems with my drill setup

  1. #11
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    Surely drilling a hole shouldn't be that difficult!
    It can be.... depending on how much accuracy is required

    But anyway

    1. Check the level of the bed by using a bent piece of wire (maybe from a coat hanger) Z shape, put one end in the chuck and a sheet of paper on the bed, lower the quill and as you rotate the chuck by hand you will be able to see if the bed is square (easier than using a square)

    2. If your chuck / quill / bearings have a bit of slop (for want of a better word) then always start with a center drill and a decent conventional tip drill bit, and as said above.... if your quill travel is not enough, then after going as far as you can, just put a block under the vice for drilling deeper (providing the drill bit it self is long enough)

    3, Expanding / foaming glue (like gorilla) can make bigger holes fit the tube


     
     
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  3. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by simon33 View Post
    Hi, and Happy New Year to all!

    I have finally got round to getting some kit for pen turning. I went for the Axminster Precision Pro lathe in the end which looks to be a nice setup. I know it is limited in terms of size but for the foreseeable future I am focusing only on pens.

    One of the limitations of the Precision Pro is the collet chuck set up, which doesn't give the ability to drill on the lathe. I therefore turned to my 59 cheapo pillar drill to drill my first 3 blanks. Surely drilling a hole shouldn't be that difficult! The problems are twofold

    a) the pillar only has 60mm of travel which is a pain as I had to drill half way and then stop and raise bed to finish it off, and
    b) using a 7mm brad point bit and holding the blank in a quick release pen blank vice with registration grooves (which must hold it square) the hole looks a bit oval, the exit point is way off centre and the tube for a slimline seems to be a loose fit as a result.

    Is the problem my technique, or the brad drill bit, or a cheap drill press that isn't accurate enough?

    The bed seems to be square to the bit laterally (i.e. the adjustable bit). However, it does look very slightly off square front to back but that isn't adjustable of course.

    Many thanks in advance

    Simon
    Couldn't you turn one end of the blank to round between centres so that it will fit in a collet? Then you could drill it on the lathe.

     
     
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  5. #13
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    Something that has not been mentioned is that some woods will make the drill bit flex ever so slightly as it will want to follow the softer grain so slow drilling and clear the swarf often this also applies to acrylics keep the swarf clear.
    I mainly drill on a drill press and have also used short stubb drills that engineers use as it gives a great start for the twist drill.

    As many have stated sharp drill bit and take you time.
    "The only people who never fail are those that never try"


    DL Woodart

     
     
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  7. #14
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    I drill all my blanks on the lathe using Jobber Length HSS Brad Point bits designed specifically
    for drill pen blanks.

    Les
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    Innovation: Process that renews something that already exists and not, as is commonly assumed, the introduction of something new.

     
     
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  9. #15
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    My choices for pens for many years my preference and go to. DeWalt, Type2, Drill Point Drills.

    Peter.
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    Nil Desperandum

     
     
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  11. #16
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    Plus 1 for DeWalt, Type2 drill bits.

    COOPER 01/08/1998-31/01/2012

     
     
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  13. #17
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    Thank you to everyone for the multitude of tips and advice. I think I probably have a combination of problems - drill press bed being a bit out, flex or wandering with the brad point bit etc. I'll be out in the garage this weekend taking on board all the advice and will report back.

    Having spent the last 30 years in a desk job, I thought it was time I learned a proper craft in my spare time. It's very much one baby step at a time but I'll get there :-)

    Thanks again.

     
     
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