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Resin on drill bits

Terry Q

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If you are talking about clearing the flutes as you drill a blank the answer is to "woodpecker" the bit. This clears the swarf before it has a chance to compress and pack into the flutes.
 

Curly

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If the "gunk" is stuck on material from drilling, a soak in a solvent will dissolve or soften it enough to allow you to wipe it off with a rag. Be mindful of the sharp edges. Plastics will usually come off with acetone, nail polish remover if it isn't easily obtained where you live. Wood resins and oils will usually succumb to mineral spirits or Vasrsol if the acetone doesn't get it.

Best is to keep it off in the first place. Slow down the speed to keep the bit and blank cool. Use a lubricant like water with a bit of soap in it for plastics. Use sharp bits and if you can look for better quality bits that are sharper and have polished surfaces compared to cheaper bits.

Pete
 

Penpal

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The worst thing happened to me once was the drill became permanently stuck so I always woodpecker the drilling remembering the loss of drill and blank being too impatient.I used to drill a hundred or so Corian 1/2 inch squared blanks at a time,tricky and forgive the unintended funny boring. My experiences with drills still supports using drill pointed ie in front of the lands or then spiral lands a small shaped drill that gives clean entry and marvellous drill life,have drilled up to the many hundreds with the one drill,used to buy them by the hundred at wholesale and share with friends, DeWalt brand.

Peter.
 

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alan morrison

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Thanks for the comments.
When drilling I have an old tooth brush to clean the flutes and when finished I have a brush to clean off the drill. I do this each time that I drill.
When drilling timbers that are resinous sometimes a bit of gunk sticks and is more difficult to remove.
Following Curly's advice I will give them a clean up with mineral spirits. Thanks.
Alan
 

Dalboy

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The simplest thing is don't drill resinous woods in the first place give it away and let them clean their bits:face::face::face:

White spirits work for me or meths.
 

Louie_Powell

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A related problem is drilling into wood that has recently been glued - before the glue joint fully cures. By the time the problem has been recognized, the glue/swarf mixture in the flutes will have fully set.

The first step in addressing this is to carefully use an awl to scratch as much of the gunk out of the flutes as possible. With larger bits, it may be possible to roll up sandpaper to make a cylinder that will fit into the flute without dulling the sharp edge. A solvent such as acetone may also help.

Oh, and an essential component of the solution is to swear at the bit.
 

alan morrison

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A related problem is drilling into wood that has recently been glued - before the glue joint fully cures. By the time the problem has been recognized, the glue/swarf mixture in the flutes will have fully set.

Thanks for this Louie, and actually it may well be glue that is the biggest culprit.
I do scratch off the gunk ( and really it is fairly minimal but can build up if not careful ) and I will use the acetone or mineral spirits as Curly advised, just to completely eradicate it.
Many thanks
Alan
 

Pierre

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If you are talking about clearing the flutes as you drill a blank the answer is to "woodpecker" the bit. This clears the swarf before it has a chance to compress and pack into the flutes.

OK then to the uninitiated what do you mean by 'woodpeckering'? I would get put in gaol here if I cleaned my drill bits by sticking them up a woodpeckers whatsit!!
 

Dalboy

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OK then to the uninitiated what do you mean by 'woodpeckering'? I would get put in gaol here if I cleaned my drill bits by sticking them up a woodpeckers whatsit!!

You drill say in by 1/4" (the depth depends on the type of wood or material you are drilling) then withdraw the bit and the do the same over and over until through, it helps clear the build-up of swarf/wood.

This is also done with metal to break the chips again to help clear the swarf.
 

Pierre

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You drill say in by 1/4" (the depth depends on the type of wood or material you are drilling) then withdraw the bit and the do the same over and over until through, it helps clear the build-up of swarf/wood.

This is also done with metal to break the chips again to help clear the swarf.

I thought that is was everyone did anyway but I called it drilling and not woodpeckering!! Ah well you learn everyday.:rolling:
 

Curly

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I had never heard the term "woodpeckering" until on this forum. I'm used to the metal working term "peck drilling" which is the same process of clearing the swarf from the hole and to break the chips so they are short and don't whip around giving the operator nasty cuts. Every trade and part of the world or even area of the same country have their own terminology for the same operation. Quirks of languages.:winking:

Pete
 

Skil Phil

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My experiences with drills still supports using drill pointed ie in front of the lands or then spiral lands a small shaped drill that gives clean entry and marvellous drill life,have drilled up to the many hundreds with the one drill,used to buy them by the hundred at wholesale and share with friends, DeWalt brand.
Peter.
Hi Peter,
I got a few sizes some years ago. Great drills especially in metal.
Wish I could get more but can not find them any more. If I do will make sure I get a few of each size.
Phil
 

Penpal

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Hi Peter,
I got a few sizes some years ago. Great drills especially in metal.
Wish I could get more but can not find them any more. If I do will make sure I get a few of each size.
Phil

They are a bit like grasshoppers over here lets find out freight cost, cost of drills from the canberra rep for the drills, and I could buy and ship them to you at your cost.

Kind regards Peter.
 

Skil Phil

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Sep 1, 2013
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226
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South Africa
Hi Peter,
Thanks for the offer.There is one major problem though and that is our glorious postal service.
If it not stolen the parcel will take up to 4 months to arrive. Not worth it. (all our gov departments are the same - totally useless).
So here is plan B.
I have a Sheila mate in Melbourne coming over in June. I will contact her and if OK for her to bring will PM you to sort it all out.
Will save on shipping and customs as well.
Thanks for the offer.
Cheers
Phil
 
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