What Is Causing This?

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  1. #1
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    What Is Causing This?

    Evening all

    Every so often lately, and typically on the really dark woods, I get to the final stage of finishing and notice white marks within the grain of the pen. This is totally ruining the finish, and although I can cut them back and retry, it never quite sorts the problem.

    My finishing routine hasnt changed at all. I sand up to 400 including with the grain with the lathe off, I then apply some sanding sealer and finish the sanding with micro mesh all the way to 12000. This always looks and feels great, I then apply a little yorkshire grit, which I tend to find makes the final finish of microcrystalline wax (Hampshire Sheen) look better. I apply this with regular kitchen roll. There are no signs of white marks until I put the microcrystalline on, and I'm wondering if it's the consistency of it along with certain types of kitchen roll making it get stuck in the small open grain.

    Any advice would be appreciated. I'm building up the courage to start with the Melamine Lacquer finish, so hopefully this wont be an issue once I get going with that (I've posted a query in the melamine post sticky at the top of the forum). I've included a pic of a problem pen I did tonight, and one I did last night without the issue. Both had the same finish routine.

    20200401_234629.jpg
    20200401_234557.jpg
    20200401_234844.jpg
    20200401_234612.jpg

    Last nights, with no problem.

    IMG_20200331_231557_895.jpg


     
     
  2. #2
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    I think you have answered this yourself with your question... Personally I think it could be the wax sticking in the tiny pores of the Wenge, either try a dark wax or Melanie finish. It's not a dark art Vodoo process, just good finish technique, sand well, clean, apply. The better your pre finish is the better the Melanie looks.
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  3. #3
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    I tried Yorkshire grit before on a porous wood and found very tiny white bits embedded in the grain. I turned another pen out of the same wood and did not use the grit. No white bits in the grain. I also found the same problem when turning bowls, so I disposed of the grit. Hopes that helps.
    Kelvin

     
     
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    Some woods do display flecks in their grain, no matter how thoroughly yo finish them. However, on a general note, Yorkshire Grit is wax based, so before applying to an open grain, I would still be applying a sanding sealer. Some of the flecks that you're seeing are undoubtedly dried wax caught in the open pores of the wood.
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    I had that problem a few times.

    COOPER 01/08/1998-31/01/2012

     
     
  8. #6
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    Very nice looking pens indeed Seb, I always finish with Melamine lacquer now, it’s quick and very effective.
    Kind regards John.

     
     
  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by flexi View Post
    I think you have answered this yourself with your question... Personally I think it could be the wax sticking in the tiny pores of the Wenge, either try a dark wax or Melanie finish. It's not a dark art Vodoo process, just good finish technique, sand well, clean, apply. The better your pre finish is the better the Melanie looks.
    Hi Mark. Thanks for the response. I think you're right, I just find it odd that it doesn't seem to do it on certain woods that I'd consider even more opened grained. That's why the kitchen towel thought came into my head, and maybe that I should be using single ply blue roll or something. I think between the Yorkshire Grit & Wax, it's just a build up of too much, and the really dark woods are highlighting it. Time to stop being a wuss, and get going with the Melamine tonight.

    Quote Originally Posted by pittswood View Post
    I tried Yorkshire grit before on a porous wood and found very tiny white bits embedded in the grain. I turned another pen out of the same wood and did not use the grit. No white bits in the grain. I also found the same problem when turning bowls, so I disposed of the grit. Hopes that helps.
    Kelvin
    Hi Kelvin. That's definitely helpful. It's interesting, as I didn't notice it immediately after the YG, but I bet in addition to the wax , it's just too much on darker woods. What finish did you switch to?

    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Dart View Post
    Some woods do display flecks in their grain, no matter how thoroughly yo finish them. However, on a general note, Yorkshire Grit is wax based, so before applying to an open grain, I would still be applying a sanding sealer. Some of the flecks that you're seeing are undoubtedly dried wax caught in the open pores of the wood.
    Hi Phil. Thanks for that. I've been applying the sealer prior to micro meshing. Maybe I should be putting another coat on post sanding prior to YG as you say. I'm going to give the Melamine a go as per your tutorial tonight, as I really want some longevity to the finish on my pens now. Thanks again.

    Quote Originally Posted by wm460 View Post
    I had that problem a few times.
    Hi Mark. Did you manage to resolve the issue or just switch finishes?

    Quote Originally Posted by fortress View Post
    Very nice looking pens indeed Seb, I always finish with Melamine lacquer now, it’s quick and very effective.
    Thanks a lot John. I'm definitely going to try the Melamine tonight.

     
     
  10. #8
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    Hi Seb,
    I have had this problem as well in the past.
    It happened to me if i tried a CA finish so in the end i gave up as i could never stop it happening.
    What wood is it in the 1st picture ?

     
     
  11. #9
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    I have tried over the last 15 years all sort of finishes from CA/BLO through tung oil, carnauba and grape oil mixed with beeswax (This latter good for food safe finishes on the inside of bowls) and all between, as various members of this forum and other forums have come up with their ideas, some I hate because they look plastic and others I hate because of my inability to emulate the consistent finish that others can achieve especially in the ridged forms. One finish I have been consistently happy with is 'wood' ie I no longer finish with anything special, I turn with very sharp tools so that I start on 600 grit after sanding sealer and then I turn using only micromesh to 12000 using the alternate sheets. I have found that the wood gleams at the finish, also the feel of the final product is of wood and not of wax. But in various experiments, if I try anything after that finish, it always screws up the final finish ie if I apply anything else that may possibly improve on 12000 grit it has never worked. Also keep in mind that if you apply sanding sealer at the outset, by the time you have worked your way down all of the grits, if you havent missed a few grits out then you have run out of sanding sealer unless you reapply it!! In fact each wood needs its own treatment since some retain their natural oils ie thuya, lignum vitae etc and others are dry and open so you need to apply the finish that matches your wood.

    Wenge as in your first piece is not standard, (I think because it is open grain and because it has natural oils like thuya) , I have made jewellery boxes and pens in it, if you are going to finish it as you describe, try only taking it down to 600 grit, with sanding sealer, and then applying your Yorkshire grit.

    This is an example of Wenge (at the time only one coat of tung oil applied) but which is only finished to 600 grit, any white specks are merely light refraction from the Oil and the customer could not find fault (happily since it was an order from the states).

    Image0053.jpg

    Hope that helps
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  13. #10
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    Hi Seb,
    I only use melamine, bees wax and friction polish. I also use the dreaded CA glue, mainly on pens made of the Yew tree.
    Hope that helps mate.
    Kelvin

     
     

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