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looking for advice

waterbuffalo

Full Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2021
Posts
335
Location
Plymouth
First Name
nigel
hi guys, any hints or tips for a new guy whos got 2 resin blanks to fit on 2 cierra pen kits...ive never turned anything but wood and only used slimline kits...bit scared tbh as they will be christmas prezzies and i dont want to stuff them up, theyre quite expensive.....but hopefully worth every penny...thanks in advance
 

Garno

Fellow
Joined
May 12, 2021
Posts
1,372
Location
Dronfield
First Name
Gary
Nigel I know exactly how you feel regards being scared, I ended up finding excuses not to go into the shed before I finished my first customer purchase, Not only was I new to turning but they had paid a heap of money that I had mostly used up to buy kits and blanks. The last pen I turned for that order was a calamity of errors and I had 10 attempts at doing it. Eventually I thought I no longer care and he is getting whatever turns out, it ended up being the best pen in the batch of 5.

The only thing I did differently was to stop worrying about it, that in itself is difficult and like you I have about 10 pens I need for family gifts this Christmas, What I would do in your position is get some more resin blanks for little cost, no need to spend a fortune on it. Turn them to fit some cheap Slimline pens and practice, once comfortable move onto the real stuff, the gifts, use nice sharp chisels and sharpen often, sand down using the micro pads (Wet) and finish with polish, I am sure there is a guide in the tutorials, I have only ever turned 1 pen that was resin and I loved it. The most important thing you can do is to not let the job start scaring you, you have plenty of time between now and Christmas to get some practise in.

As a new turner that is really the only advise I can offer, I know it will all work out for you. :ciggrin::ciggrin::ciggrin:

Gary
 

flexi

Executive Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2014
Posts
6,159
Location
Maidstone
First Name
mark
Gary is right:thumbs::thumbs:
I turn a bit of acrylic..... :funny:
Best advice is as always.... Sharp tools, allow plenty of time and don't be afraid.
Sharp tools,
yes we have all done it, "I'll do another and then sharpen" NO, sharpen first... Then nice light and easy passes, it will be brittle until you have it round and then it should come off in annoying long ribbons that wrap around everthing.
Time,
Don't try turning in a hurry or rush at it especially not your first time... Again nice light cuts take time, also stopping frequently to remove the ribbons adds to your time.... Finishing WILL take longer until you get the habit of going through your grits right down and then liquid polishes to make it pop
Don't worry,
If you can turn wood, you can turn acrylic, yes it behaves slightly different and each resin will turn slightly different again but YOU CAN DO It!!
Heck I do, my most expensive cast blank was in 3 figures, that took confidence!
One further thing, once turned, always check inside the tube... I use a small round file and a small bottle brush. If the fittings are in anyway to tight wood will give a smidgen Acrylic will not, sometimes tiny bits of casting resin can remain or liquid polish dries in the tube.... 60 seconds with a light pass of a file and then a couple of passes with a bottle brush saves frustration, I have been there more than once...
 

Bill Mooney

Blind old git
Grand Master
Joined
Aug 16, 2014
Posts
10,997
Location
County Durham
First Name
Bill
As flexi says. Relax, hold your tools loosely but firm, no white knuckles. We al have our own ways of finishing. Remember, Sharp Tools, might cuts.
I turn at max speed.
I always start sanding with 100 grit through to 500 grit sanding approx 900 rpm, then sanding along the blank with the lathe stopped. Then I sand with 0000 wire wool. Then I use Farecla 300 then Farecla 500 wiping with clean paper towel between grits. I don’t wet sand.
You can achieve a good finish with Tcut car polish. I have to
 

waterbuffalo

Full Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2021
Posts
335
Location
Plymouth
First Name
nigel
thank you mate, that makes perfect sense...ill look at some cheaper blanks to try first...i appreciate the time you took to answer...hopefully will have some cool piccies to post up soon :thumbs:
 

waterbuffalo

Full Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2021
Posts
335
Location
Plymouth
First Name
nigel
As flexi says. Relax, hold your tools loosely but firm, no white knuckles. We al have our own ways of finishing. Remember, Sharp Tools, might cuts.
I turn at max speed.
I always start sanding with 100 grit through to 500 grit sanding approx 900 rpm, then sanding along the blank with the lathe stopped. Then I sand with 0000 wire wool. Then I use Farecla 300 then Farecla 500 wiping with clean paper towel between grits. I don’t wet sand.
You can achieve a good finish with Tcut car polish. I have to

it seems i have much to learn, and stuff to buy...perhaps knitting would have been a cheaper hobby lol
 

waterbuffalo

Full Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2021
Posts
335
Location
Plymouth
First Name
nigel
If you use a buffing wheel don't like them slip out of your hand DAMHIKT:whistling:

cant figure out what DAMHIKT means, but im sure its not good lol...i use to have regular arguments with my buffing wheel and it won every time, so now i leave it alone....it just sits there with that smug expression knowing that it has beaten me
 

21William

Fellow
Joined
Jan 21, 2016
Posts
1,618
Location
Dorset
First Name
William
If you use a buffing wheel don't like them slip out of your hand DAMHIKT:whistling:

I know what you mean.

In the case of small things like pens, perhaps it would be better to leave the blank on the lathe running at a low speed then use a small buffing wheel mounted in a battery drill turning in the opposite direction?
 

alpha1

Fellow
Joined
Mar 29, 2018
Posts
1,175
Location
middlesbrough
First Name
Dave
I have both buffing wheels and the ones used for inside of bowls. I use the ones that you normally use for bowls without any issues. They bring the pens up shiny shiny shiny.:banana::banana:
 
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