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Pen finishes

Gordon

Full Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2022
Posts
45
Location
Kirkcaldy
First Name
Gordon
Morning all,

Fairly new to pen turning, but enjoying being creative and making some pens that people seem to have been impressed with. Until now it's mostly been in wood with finishing off with a beeswax based furniture wax (only because it came free with the wife's new coffee table from Oak Furniture Land, lol)

Anyway, lets get to the point of the post, anybody want to offer some finishing suggestions & tips, not purely for myself but also for all the other newish turners out there. Not just for wood though, advice on acrylic as well.
 

flexi

Executive Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2014
Posts
6,159
Location
Maidstone
First Name
mark
Personally on acrylics, I turn with sharp tools and shallow cuts leaving a good finish. I start sanding with 400grit radially, turn the lathe off, a couple of passes along the blank whilst rotating the blank by hand 'wipe any dust off' then next grit..... Normally down to 1000grit then I use liquid polish this is normally Farcla polish but of late I have been using car polish from Machine mart as its VERY local to me... I use two grades of this and then wipe with a clean cloth....
Before assembly I 'always' run a rats tail file through the tube a couple of times to remove any glue residue, then run a snail countersink around a couple of times to remove any slight burs( from end milling) it might sound excessive but when you have a hairline crack on a £50 blank you will be thinking I should have taken them 5mins...
Hope this helps
 

silver

General dogsbody
Executive Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2013
Posts
6,301
Location
Somewhere in Staffordshire,
First Name
Eamonn.
Just an update, few pointers on pen turning in general.

One thing you will notice is that there is never “one way” to making or finishing pens, the latter is a big debate that you will find on here and many other places that discuss pen turning.

Have a search and see what you can find on this forum, if you can’t find it then ask away. There is never a stupid question only stupid answers.

I always advise doing the slimline as a starter not because it’s cheap, but also it’s a great learner and those skills will go with you. Yes there are easier single tube kits, but those don’t give you the basics of grain matching, two tube turning and dealing with small fine turning.

One thing you will find is that not all like named kits are equal. If you buy a Gent pen kit from one supplier and then go to another, you may find kit quality different and bush sizes different as well.
So my advice is buy bushes from the suppliers you have the kits off. That way you will always have the right ones

Bushes (we call them that, people over the pond call them bushings :tongue:, they spell colour different as well.:rolling:) are not a lifetime piece of tooling and will need to be replaced as they will wear as you either catch them with your chisel or sand them when finishing. You have also had plenty of comments on storing them.

Gluing, search the page, CA, Two part Epoxy, polyurethane glue like gorilla glue are all acceptable. It’s your choice.

Many will use a mandrel or turn between centre, again this is personal choice and you don’t “have” to follow the crowd. Do it your way.

TCT or HSS turning Chisels.
Again this is one of those personal choices and what will work for you.
We started with the usual HSS turning sets which have always been a main stay on organics, especially the skew. But from time to time I use the square TCT tipped home made chisel. Just for clarity, there are square and they are square ! Lost me now !

What I tend to use is the square TCT tips that have a radius edge to them. I have both 100mm (4”) and 150mm (6”) radius tips. I find them to be the best for acrylics as they don’t suffer with edge dig in.
I have the 15mm round ones that I use for laminated blanks, especially if you are using none ferrous metals in the blank as well.
The TCT can be resharpened by rubbing the flat face on a fine diamond stone. That said I tend to class them as a disposable and plan that in to my manufacturing costs.

Pen shape is a personal choice and many will clearly say they don’t like it. Don’t take it personal and beauty is on the eye of the beholder. Most important is that you are happy with it.

Some will mention “over or under turned” which basically means in their opinion the finish is a little too much taken off or not enough. Again, pictures play a jig part here and can make a pen look different than it is In the hand.


Still with me ! :thumbs: Take a breath.

Finishing wood, some use CA (yes it’s a glue but who said it wasn’t a finish disguised as a glue :thinks:) there is also car lacquer, melamine lacquer, friction polish and any amount of bespoke personal mixes that pen turners can conjure up. There is as many ways to finish a pen as there are turners.

My options (it’s only the way I finish my pens)
1. Acrylics are sand up to 1200 with the lathe running and horizontally with the lathe stopped on every grade. Final grade is horizontally only.
Then use Yorkshire grit, microfine and then a final polish with any car polish you fancy.

2. Woods and other organics.
Finish to 600, then melamine lacquer using a slightly adapted Phil Dart method. For a high gloss leave overnight or 24hours to allow the lacquer to harden. Then Yorkshire grit microfine to bring the finish to a high gloss.

3. Wood/acrylic mix (so Called Hybrid blanks)
Sand to 600, lathe stopped and horizontally on all grades. Then use melamine lacquer using the slightly adapted Phil Dart method. Tend not to use Yorkshire grit on these as I have found that occasionally I have had residue get between where the wood meets acrylic and leave a fine white line. Which is a bugger to remedy.

But do it your way, if it don’t work try another way. Once you find your MOJO and great finish then stick to it. Don’t be swayed by the many that say “use this”. It’s your choice.

Remember, we are all learning from each other but it doesn’t mean we are all right just because it works for us.

Most important is to enjoy your new found skills and if you love what you are doing it doesn’t matter what anyone says or thinks. It’s your work, enjoy it and great things will come from it.
 

Garno

Fellow
Joined
May 12, 2021
Posts
1,372
Location
Dronfield
First Name
Gary
I differ a lot to how mark finishes acrylics, that would explain how his look better. :funny::funny:

Once turned I start with #80 Abranet running it from left to right turning the blank by hand.
I then clean up the blank with a soft cloth.
Then I switch on the lathe at its slowest speed and sand with #120 Abranet with slightly less pressure and clean with soft cloth.
I repeat the above using all of the Abranet grits up to and including #600, by this time I am only sanding very lightly. each grit I use less force/pressure.

Once I have done the #600 I move onto the wet and dry pads. I use them wet with the lathe running at it's slowest speed and then dry the blank between pads.

Once I have gone through all of the pads I put some G10 on it (for protection) Ideally I would put G3 followed by G10 but couldn't afford them both when I was buying everything in.

As you can see massive differences between my technique and Mark's [MENTION=626]flexi[/MENTION] and it will be the same with others as well. Finishing is not a 2 minute job and the way someone else does it may not suit you. Adopt a technique that you are comfortable with and stick with that for a while. Finishing is a Pandora's box with many differing variations, none of them are really wrong and so far the absolute perfect way has yet to be discovered.

Apparently the perfect way has been written down, the recipe can be found next to the platinum Unicorn, in the field adjacent to the one with the rocking horse poop and plaited fog :thumbs:
 

Gordon

Full Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2022
Posts
45
Location
Kirkcaldy
First Name
Gordon
Thank you everybody for your comments.

At the moment it's all a learning curve, we all have to make mistakes so that we learn from them. So far I've made a few and been more wary of making the same ones again. Also been happy with a few of the pens I've made (ok, not a patch on some of the ones on display within this forum, but we all start somewhere) and hopefully the ones I make in the future will improve. It's good to hear what others on here do, and also good that people are willing to share their skills.

:thumbs:
 
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