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Two ways to drill and face blanks

Penpal

Grand Master
Joined
May 26, 2013
Posts
25,340
Location
Canberra AUSTRALIA
First Name
Peter
I think the first two pics show the XY axis vice with Prismatic jaws two blanks just shoved in for the pic to show how the vertical vees in the jaws hold the blank for drilling and the horizontal jaws can hold the blank for facing using a special stepdrill self explanatory. The bottom 3 pics show using a disk sander a right angle slide and a post in a tough wood square all ways with a cut off mandrel fitted in I use sleeves for other than Slimlines.

Kind regards Peter.
 

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Neil

Fellow
Joined
May 21, 2013
Posts
3,132
Location
Hitchin, Hertfordshire
First Name
Neil
Peter,
This is the way tha I achieve the same. Using a standard centering vice, I have cut an "L" shaped piece of 18mm mdf and secured that to the pillar drill table with clamps.

Underneath the "L" shaped piece there is a 3mm mdf piece rebated by about 10mm. This allows the centering drill to be relocated exactly without shavings and sawdust becoming trapped between the vice and the wood stop, allowing perfect repositioning everytime. Need to brush away the shavings every ten or twenty blanks but it is quick, repeatable and cheap. The 22mm circular hole in the corner helps alignment by providing a hole for the shavings.

What I do is to try and locate the edges of the wood jig over the holes on the pillar drill table and then by sliding the centering vice sideways and towards and away from you running it along the wood jig as you align it for the next jig it pushes most of the crap through the holes onto the floor.
 

Jim

Grand Master
Joined
Oct 19, 2011
Posts
15,617
Some good looking jigs guys, and all reach the same goal ... Thanks for sharing them ... :bwink:
 

Penpal

Grand Master
Joined
May 26, 2013
Posts
25,340
Location
Canberra AUSTRALIA
First Name
Peter
Neil,

Like your idea it works I never use anything under my blanks when I drill because the De Walt Extreme 2 drills I use give me clean exit and I would be forever replacing the under pieces. My habit cause I use a one HP motor on the drill and starting current is up and past a brief 30 amps by my ammeter is to run the motor all the time and drill batches of a hundred or so so I avoid the sacrificial piece under. Being a single phase motor the poor as contacts that throw out the start winding arc a lot if the timing on the AC Cycle hits the peak when the volts amps are high. All motors are designed for short run long run so many starts in a row one after the other etc.

I admire your inginuity being always after the magic grain sometimes my blanks are the ones from hell to hold and my prism jaws provide that extra grip in so many places.

Look forward to seeing more pics of everyones methods there is a lot to respect on here.

Kind regards. Peter.
 

Neil

Fellow
Joined
May 21, 2013
Posts
3,132
Location
Hitchin, Hertfordshire
First Name
Neil
Peter,

Likewise, I keep the drill running in between blanks and dont use any sacrificial wood underneath, its a nuisance, on the softer woods I'll deliberately cut them longer and on Spalted beech in particular I'll use a lip and spur as opposed to the M2 or colt drills which drift in spalted beech because the wood can be hard in some places and soft in others and the drill can skate on the surface however delicate with the downward presure you are.
 
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