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  1. #1
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    Total confusion

    Morning Casters

    This post is aimed at those of you on here who have obtained the Holy Grail and managed to encapsulate pictures and images inside resin to use as pen blanks.

    I had a go last week using Scirocco tubes, Glass Cast 50 resin and a Colour laser printer. I printed the image onto weatherproof sticky backed white paper and when printed and cut it looked great. I cut out using the brilliant jig and roller from Pen Blanks andMoulds (Thank you Paul).

    However, when the pen got turned, the white background of the logo had gone 'off white' almost tinged with Brown. I did not use a pressure pot although we have one here.
    What have. I done wrong? What paper should I have used? All advice in this area seems to be from America and its the devils own work to find the products that they are using/recommend without incurring huge shipping costs so to render the project unfeasible. I am just very keen to know what to buy etc. Some say paint the tubes, some say waterproof paper etc.

    As always ladies and gents, all advice will be taken on board and hope you can help.

    With grateful thanks

    David


     
     
  2. #2
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    Can't help you David, someone on here will.
    Kelvin

     
     
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  4. #3
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    Not really sure but I did read some where that you have to coat the label with mod podge.

    COOPER 01/08/1998-31/01/2012

     
     
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  6. #4
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    I agree, I have also read you need mod podge.

    I do not know what type though sorry Mod Podge | Hobbycraft

     
     
  7. #5
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    If you have access to the August 2017 Issue of American Woodturner there is an article by my wife, Marla, on casting Japanese Chiyogami paper. It may help you some.

    What I can tell you is not to cast tubes until you have tested the materials first. A piece of kitchen foil folded into a small container or a tart cup works. Glue a sample of the material to it and pour a little resin on top and see what happens. The test will show you whether the glue will let go, the ink will run or discolour, with the same applying to paint or nail polish backgrounds too. Once you know it is all good then have fun casting tubes.

    Use the pressure pot when you cast. You don't need a lot of pressure,10 or 15psi/0.7 or 1bar is enough. It will stop very fine surface bubbles on the tubes that look like a shimmer, almost iridescence.

    Pete

     
     
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  9. #6
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    Hi David, I have been casting labels and Chiyogami paper for a few years now and have sorted out the problems I had at the start. I will take you through what I do and you can take it or leave as you please.

    To start with, I have to say that I use PR and an inkjet printer, but the principles should be the same. Also, I do not have a pressure pot and the results are fine. I have tried using Avery label paper but I just cannot get on with it, though many people use it. I use high definition paper to suit my Canon printer. I first paint the tube white with car primer paint - this helps the white parts of the label stay white and also gives a good surface to take the glue I use. When the paint is dry, I stick the label on with tacky glue, which can be found in craft supply shops. When the glue is dry, I give it 2 coats of clear PVA glue, again found in craft supply shops, allowing drying time between coats, making sure to work it into the label ends. This is important to avoid resin soaking into the ends and spoiling it. I used to use Mod Podge, which worked well, but the PVA is cheaper!

    I think the trouble you are having with white parts discolouring is probably due to the brass tube showing through if the resin soaks into the paper. Remember, the white parts are just the paper itself.

    Another thing I do that might not be necessary, is after the casting is trimmed to length I dribble some thin CA onto the exposed ends of the label, wiping it off before it dries. Just to prevent water soaking in, as I wet sand to final size.

    That's really it. Any questions, just ask.

    Harry

     
     
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  11. #7
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    David,
    I’ve been threatening the world with some resin and made the jump into the messy world. And boy was it messy. It was never going to work first time so I predicted a failure and got on with the learning experience. Oh, and it was Oscar Wilde who allegedly said experience is the name we give to our mistakes!

    Printed the log on to waterproof paper. Self adhesive label onto bare tube, no problem. Stuck it in the mould after spraying it with silicon spray from screwfix (worked well). Warmed the glass cast and gardener in a water bath (saucepan) until warm and runnier than room temperature mixed it and left it to stand for ten minutes.

    I’ve significant experience in making resin boats and canoes, about twenty craft in total and there is no need to whisk the resin and catalyst as if it was a meringue and by warming it premixing it helped what little bubbles were there, dissipate very easily. That’s when it went tits up as the purpose made silicon mould leaked like a bloody sieve, but heyho, it was destined for the bin from the outset anyway. Will be making my own moulds from corian and hot melt. Labels weren’t waterproof, after immersion, the label changed. Will try coating with clear nail varnish unless someone tells me that’s not a good idea.

    Mathematical formula:

    PVA + 5 + posh name = mod podge.

    Use pva and buy yourself a pint!

    It’s in the bin, and back to the resin coated worksurface for a repeat tomorrow morning, but didn’t use or need a pot.

    Anyone got any more advice, much appreciated.
    There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price alone are this man's lawful prey. (John Ruskin 1819-1900)

     
     
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