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Potential Newbie.....

Padster

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Paddy
Hi All,

I'm Padster age 50, living in the midlands, potential newbie here... Why?

Well my first post was on an old thread from 2016 - that I'm hoping will get a reply. Rather than repeat here's the link http://www.penturners.co.uk/tools-equipment-and-accessories/17181-proxxon-mini-lathe.html

In essence I have a Proxxon DB250 and want to see if I can use it for pen turning...

Background.....well I turned a chess set when at college from old school desk legs, then let my woodworking go dormant for a number of years. I returned to it a number of years ago - buying a shopsmith mark v to do all types of woodworking in my limited single garage space and I've made various bits of furniture, some involving a little turning most not.

More recently I completely renovated my garage space in to a proper workshop, new electrics and lighting, selling the shopsmith making new workbenches, including an MFT and router table, new tools etc. so it's somewhere I can just go to my 'man cave' as my wife calls it.

So now with Fathers day coming I was asked what I wanted so using the Proxxon seemed a good idea .....leading to the post above and me being here!

I'm hopeful to get a reply that will help, it seems it's already been done so I'm not re-inventing the wheel.

I do post on another more general woodworking forum, and would hope to so here when I feel I can help, contribute or just be a part.

Regards

Padster
 

flexi

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Hi and welcome, I saw your post revival yesterday and piqued my interest, I am downsizing and have looked at the Proxxon due to reputation..... Looking at the posted picture it looks like the OP has put a std Morse tapered pen mandrel into a collet chuck??...... Okay.... So does the Proxxon have a collet chuck??
Yes.... Can you buy pen mandrel shafts?? ... Yes.... So why not just fit a std mandrel shaft in a collet chuck??
For the cost of a tenner I would probably try that first, if the mandrel is too long for single tube pens, then just add more bushes to the tail end to pack out... :thinks::thinks:
 

21William

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The setup in the linked picture doesn’t look very solid to me.

The Proxxon DB250 seems to have a proprietary collet system and comes with 2,3,4,6,8 and 10mm collets. You might be able to fit a mandrel shaft directly into one of the collets?

You may need an “adapter” sleeve though depending on what mandrel you buy.
 

Curly

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The poster of the thread you linked hasn't visited the site since 2018 so I doubt he/she will be back to answer your question.
The others have hit on the easiest way to hold a mandrel using the 6mm collet for the lathe and skipping the Morse taper part altogether.

Pete
 

Padster

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Paddy
Thanks for the comments guys, being new to this I'm unsure exactly what I need so when I saw the post with the pic it looked like what I needed so didn't need to invent something new.
[MENTION=2148]Curly[/MENTION] I did suddenly think why don't I check the OP of the thread I quoted and came back with the same info as you :-( There is someone else who quotes a similar setup but they too have not visited recently...(2020)

So I am open to all suggestions and feel free to treat me as an idiot as I don't know what I need and only have the basis of a conversation with a guy at Axminister who tried to be helpful, and not just flog me something!
[MENTION=626]flexi[/MENTION] the mandrel pen kits I looked at Axminster were quite expensive 1MT or 2MT same price, but are you suggesting you can pick them up for a tenner or so? If so I agree and I'll buy one to try but I'm unsure what or where to buy currently.

BTW - The statement about collets and collect sizes above are correct and the largest is 10mm - if you see the pic I can also tell you that where the collets join the motor it is 'hollow' and the hole passes straight through the 'housing'.

Thanks again and apologies if I'm asking dumb questions!

Hopefully with some help I'll get to make something eventually :eeeeek:

Padster
 

flexi

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Thanks Mark, if you have a collet chuck you do not need a Morse taper mandrel all you need is the bar itself, these can be bought as just replacement parts as some people actually manage to bend them.... As such just buy the replacement bar £5-£8....other frugal Turners have just bought a length of 6.2/6.3mm bar, which is OK with a mandrel saver( not an option in your case)..... But not overly complicated and you should be turning really quickly:thumbs::thumbs:
 

21William

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Mandrels are available in several different sizes. The ones linked earlier are I believe 6.2mm. If the 6mm collet for the lathe is true to size the shaft will be too big for it. You could sleeve down a larger collet like the 10mm for it though.
 

Curly

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Here are some links to illustrate what flexi is saying. I'm not suggesting you get them from the US as it will generally be better for you to get them from a UK pen kit site.

#2 Morse Taper Mandrel (Adjustable Length) - WoodTurningz This is a mandrel with a collet rather than a setscrew or threaded to hold the shaft. Because your lathe already has the collet you get to skip that part.

Replacement Mandrel Rod (EL/FL) - WoodTurningz The replacement mandrel only that Flexi suggests getting.

Universal Mandrel fits any lathe with a Drill chuck - WoodTurningz Another mandrel that for a few bucks more includes the knurled nut, a drill bit and a set of slimline bushings, one of the most common pens people start with because they don't cost much. Brad point bits are great on side grain but I prefer a normal bit for drilling end grain or plastics.

Pete
 

21William

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There seems to be a three jaw chuck available for that lathe which could be used to grip a mandrel shaft but I suspect using one of the supplied collets may be better.
 

Padster

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Paddy
So thanks all for the info I think I’m getting there but have one other newbie question, I did try a search but didn’t find an answer ... so what glue do you folks use for securing the barrel into the blank (and where you get it - if there is a good place other than searching Amazon!)

Thanks again

Padster
 

Bill Mooney

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I went to Metal Supermarket & bought some silver steel rod which I’m still using. The lathe itself is excellent quality.
 

21William

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I use 5 minute (but leave it several hours) Epoxy for glueing the tube in. Some folks use Polyurethane but I find it very messy. You can use Superglue (the thick stuff is best) but the joint can be a bit brittle. You can get Epoxy from the pound shop that’s good enough for Pens.
 

flexi

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Hi, you may be better asking fresh questions in a fresh thread, just to keep track of things, also please feel free to check previous questions.... This is a perennial one... Personally I use Gorilla PU for everything.... Not let me down yet, just not a speedy solution. I always blank up and turn next day:thumbs::thumbs:
 

21William

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I forgot to add. Epoxy in the double syringe packaging lasts a very long time. Superglue, if stored in the fridge also has a good shelf life. Polyurethane glue on the other hand goes off much quicker and sets in the bottle - this has happened to me several times. Storing the bottle upside down helps apparently.
 

21William

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I went to Metal Supermarket & bought some silver steel rod which I’m still using. The lathe itself is excellent quality.

That’s what I did as well but I use a mandrel saver and the OP can’t use one on his lathe as far as I can tell?

What diameter did you buy Bill, 6mm or 1/4”?
 

Curly

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You have been told about the three main types of glues to use to hold the tubed in the blanks but not mentioned is it is very important to keep that glue out of the tubes. Any dried glue in the tubes effectively reduces the diameter so when you press in the parts the brass will expand more than it should and your blank splits. Before you glue the tube and blank together plugging the hole keeps the inside clean. People use everything from slices of potato, dental wax sheet, bees wax sheet used for rolling candles (our method), plumbers putty, plasticine/modelling clay, play dough and probably some things I have forgotten. You press the tube into them to cookie cut plugs for each end and that keeps the glue out. When the glue dries you can pick out the plug with a small craft knife. Prevention is much better than digging dry glue out of a tube and the dismay of spitting a blank because you missed some glue inside.

Pete
 

silver

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Welcome on board.

Excuse my ignorance on the Proxxon lathe.

But can you not get a dead centre and live centre for them? Then use turn between centre bushes?
 

Bill Mooney

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That’s what I did as well but I use a mandrel saver and the OP can’t use one on his lathe as far as I can tell?

What diameter did you buy Bill, 6mm or 1/4”?
It sure what diameter rod I bought now it’s so long ago. Sorry I can’t help.
 
Warning! This thread has not had any replies for over a year. You are welcome to post a reply here, but it might be better to start a new thread (and maybe include a link to this one if you need to).
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