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Secret sauce?

Hallelujahal

Hallelujahal

Graduate Member
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Jan 5, 2023
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710
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Lincolnshire
First Name
Alex
So just wondering how you guys finish your acrylic blanks? Do you have a secret sauce that you can share?
I’m afraid my method so far has been to turn and the simply finish by working my way through the grits till I get micromeshable then take it up to 12000. However I don’t use a polish as I wouldn’t know what to use? What do you kind folk use?
 
P

Paul-H

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Mar 5, 2023
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Kent
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Paul
I'm the same as you but finish with a 1 micron plastic polish or Simichrome polish.

Paul
 
M

MikeC

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Mar 25, 2023
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Doncaster
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Michael Cowling
Micromesh and then Yorkshire Grit.
BUT I won't be using that when my pot is empty. It has been sold to a Company in the USA and the price in the UK has increased dramatically.
I'll try Machine Mart

Mike
 
M

MikeC

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Doncaster
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Michael Cowling
flexi said:
After sanding I used to switch to Farcla 200 which is a paint/bodyshop buffing polish, then 500....now I use Machine Marts version as I have a shop in walking distance and tbh it's just as good

Auto Polishing Compound Coarse 500ml - Machine Mart - Machine Mart

www.machinemart.co.uk www.machinemart.co.uk
Click to expand...
I see that Machine Mart do a course, medium and fine in the same product. Which do you use, or do you go through the grades on that for the best finish that you can see your face in?

Mike
 
His Nibs

His Nibs

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106
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Padstow
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Richard
After going through the grades of micro-mesh I use Axminster Woodturning Acrylic Polish. Part Number: 105761 In my opinion really good stuff, especially on Diamond Cast blanks.

Richard
 
J

jrista

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Mar 31, 2023
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14
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Colorado, USA
First Name
Jon
Hallelujahal said:
So just wondering how you guys finish your acrylic blanks? Do you have a secret sauce that you can share?
I’m afraid my method so far has been to turn and the simply finish by working my way through the grits till I get micromeshable then take it up to 12000. However I don’t use a polish as I wouldn’t know what to use? What do you kind folk use?
Click to expand...

I switched to using Zona Paper, which goes down to 1 micron grit (which is way up there, something like 20000 or so). I polish with a few higher grit polishes, and have been learning how to buff (which, in the end, I think is the real trick...seems if you can really learn how to buff, it'll get you the best resin finish in the end....its definitely a skill though.)
 
Phil Dart

Phil Dart

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Colebrooke, Devon
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Phil
Whatever method you use, just check that your next step in the process is not a backward one. Micromesh 12000 sands to 1 micron. If you've gone to all the trouble of getting that far with abrasives, you need to be certain that any liquids or compounds you subsequently apply are not going to be coarser. Many of them are.

Just saying. :winking:
 
M

MikeC

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Joined
Mar 25, 2023
Posts
83
Location
Doncaster
First Name
Michael Cowling
Phil Dart said:
Whatever method you use, just check that your next step in the process is not a backward one. Micromesh 12000 sands to 1 micron. If you've gone to all the trouble of getting that far with abrasives, you need to be certain that any liquids or compounds you subsequently apply are not going to be coarser. Many of them are.

Just saying. :winking:
Click to expand...
Thanks Phil
Is there any way you could tell from the bottle?
I’ve just looked and I can’t see anything
Mike
 
Phil Dart

Phil Dart

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Phil
MikeC said:
Thanks Phil
Is there any way you could tell from the bottle?
I’ve just looked and I can’t see anything
Mike
Click to expand...
Err, not usually, as far as I know. I can tell you though that Yorkshire Grit, which you mentioned above, and all other compounds of the same ilk, only abrade to the equivalent of about 1000 grit. That's similar to Micromewsh 2400, so if you've gone to the trouble of reaching Micromesh 12000, Yorkshire Grit represents several backward steps.

I have to say that it would be difficult to improve on the finish you get from MM12000, and unless you're going to study it under a laboratory microscope, why would anyone need to? A bit of microcrystalline to keep the fingerprints off and the job is done.

I don't even go that far. I sand to 1200 with dry, standard abrasives, then I use Liberon 0000 steel wool, and then Chestnut burnishing cream. I've done it all sorts of ways in the past, and frankly it's difficult to tell the difference with the naked eye, so now I take the easy route I've just described.

However, I emphasie the Liberon part. There is no standard when it comes to steel wool grades and some manufacturers' idea of 0000 is only good for cleaning the cooker. Liberon is ultra-fine, and is the finest I've ever found.
 
M

MikeC

Full Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2023
Posts
83
Location
Doncaster
First Name
Michael Cowling
Phil Dart said:
Err, not usually, as far as I know. I can tell you though that Yorkshire Grit, which you mentioned above, and all other compounds of the same ilk, only abrade to the equivalent of about 1000 grit. That's similar to Micromewsh 2400, so if you've gone to the trouble of reaching Micromesh 12000, Yorkshire Grit represents several backward steps.

I have to say that it would be difficult to improve on the finish you get from MM12000, and unless you're going to study it under a laboratory microscope, why would anyone need to? A bit of microcrystalline to keep the fingerprints off and the job is done.

I don't even go that far. I sand to 1200 with dry, standard abrasives, then I use Liberon 0000 steel wool, and then Chestnut burnishing cream. I've done it all sorts of ways in the past, and frankly it's difficult to tell the difference with the naked eye, so now I take the easy route I've just described.

However, I emphasie the Liberon part. There is no standard when it comes to steel wool grades and some manufacturers' idea of 0000 is only good for cleaning the cooker. Liberon is ultra-fine, and is the finest I've ever found.
Click to expand...
Thanks Phil
That’s dispelled a few myths!!
Mike
 
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