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Proxxon DB250 Mini Lathe

Padster

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All,

Starting a new thread as the old one I dug up had people no longer posting on the forum.

Firstly thanks to all who sent me comments. I now have a working set-up and I believe after this post I will be able to post pictures.

The long and short is it works, there are probably many different ways to do it but I have settled on a 1MT Mandrel, used with the 3 jaw chuck - jaws reversed.

It is more than powerful enough and doesn't stall or get stopped when roughing out the blanks.

Pics to follow.

Regards

Padster
 

Padster

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Here is a pic of it all set-up - hopefully this works as had difficulty with site accepting new native apple format.

DB250.jpg

Regards

Padster
 

Padster

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just to make a longer tool rest now to save moving the small one from side to side.

If only I did metalwork - and I can't find anything on the internet - I know it's a first world problem and to be honest I can live with it, but I can't be the first person needing it - If I work out or find a solution I'll post!

....but don't hold your breath lol
 

Curly

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The first thing that came to mind yesterday when I saw the thread was why the chucks? Then I figured he must have a reason like the rod doesn't come out of the taper and can't hold it any other way so I didn't say anything. If it does come out then I would just use the 3 jaw with the jaws back in the usual direction. Padster you got som 'splainin to do. :thinks:

Pete
 

21William

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As I mentioned before, with the right adapter the mandrel shaft could be fitted into one of the collets that comes with that lathe.

D71D5F9F-B13C-4A75-B392-F4E9AC0F281E.jpg
 

21William

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The early part of this video shows a Pen Mandrel directly fitted into a Proxxon Collet. It could be a 6mm collet and mandrel or perhaps a spare 6mm collet has been opened up to fit a 1/4” mandrel? I don’t speak German though! :whistling:

 

21William

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Here’s the mandrel and collet being inserted into the spindle. The spindle nut is next to the tool rest. You could just grip the shaft with the three jaw chuck but collet chucks are generally more accurate and it would be a lot safer just having the small spindle nut rotating near your hand. :wink:

06FFADE2-59AE-4EA0-BAA8-DF1F7EA51E10.jpg
 

Padster

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[MENTION=1324]21William[/MENTION] - Right you are correct, I've not watched the videos yet but couldn't find them when I was researching either - Murphy's law as all I found was a link to this site, but that was a plus cos at least I found all you guys who have been helpful and courteous to a newbie!

I did however go and inspect what I have ended up with and how it performs in various different configurations. The configuration I pictured gives the least room and looks the most convoluted but gives the greatest stability, I think this is due to the way and depth of the 'chuck that came with the mandrel kit. Taking the rod out and just using a collet in the DB250 is the least stable but gives the most room, the middle option is using the rod with the 3-jaw chuck and the jaws the normal way round but still doesn't feel as stable as the first way.

So for now I will continue as is, if I need more space I will use just the chuck option, and if or when I bend or need to replace the rod I will revisit the whole setup.

I can say I have the pen turning bug and I can say thank you to all who have commented, because at least the next time someone looks all the information will be available in a single thread and researched so if none of us are around there will be answers.

So thanks again to all for the help and friendly welcome and I hope to get to the point where I can give more meaningful contributions!

Regards

Padster
 

21William

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Strange indeed. Normally the most accurate and secure way of holding anything like this in a lathe is with a collet directly into the headstock spindle, which is exactly what you have with the DB250 and demonstrated in the video. Something is amiss somewhere. I should add that it’s always desirable to get the workpiece as close to the headstock bearings as reasonably practicable to prevent premature wear.
 
Warning! This thread has not had any replies for over a year. You are welcome to post a reply here, but it might be better to start a new thread (and maybe include a link to this one if you need to).
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