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Colour smudging

Atlasboy

Apprentice Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2022
Posts
3
Location
Wetley Rocks
First Name
Mark
Hi new to here,
Can anyone recommend how to stop colour smudging together when I'm finishing.
I'm using tulipwood dryed red with light fast stain methanol based with maple stripes.
1st finish I give 2 coats of sanding sealer then 4 coats of wax but it smudges on the 1st coat.
2nd finish is ca glue which smudges on 1st coat.
Is there a way in stopping it from mixing .
Thanks.
 

flexi

Executive Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2014
Posts
6,159
Location
Maidstone
First Name
mark
Hi Mark, welcome to the forum and a great opening question... But my turn, how long after dying are you applying the finish? To what depth are you trying to dye, ie pen blanks or bowls? :thinks::thinks:
 

Atlasboy

Apprentice Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2022
Posts
3
Location
Wetley Rocks
First Name
Mark
Tulipwood was cut to 60mmx22mmx22mm blanks then in jar for 2 weeks soaking, then cut in wavey pattern with maple then centre not red enough so back in jar for 2 weeks again.
Pulled out and left to dry for a few weeks, then glued together with maple then cut wavey the opposite way and glued then sat for more weeks,tubed and sat more weeks always kept in nice warm workshop.
Probably atotl of 8 weeks or more so it was very dry, when I dye furniture and spray the sanding sealer it does not smudge its with rotating.
Any ideas thanks Mark.
 

Dalboy

Executive Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2014
Posts
7,679
Location
Kent
First Name
Derek
The problems with some stains are that when applying some sealers is that the sealer reactivates the stain causing it to bleed so you need to select the right type of sealer to prevent this. I tend to use spray on sealers with some jobs either cellulose or acrylic. I would hazard a guess that you are using cellulose sealer on the stain
 

silver

General dogsbody
Executive Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2013
Posts
6,301
Location
Somewhere in Staffordshire,
First Name
Eamonn.
Welcome to the forum Mark.

I would go with what Derek [MENTION=449]Dalboy[/MENTION] has said.

I found that when using dyes that acrylic sanding sealer works best as it’s water based and minimises and conflicts.

Would be good to see pics when you can post them.

By the way, I’m not that far away from you. In fact passed those rocks so many times as have friends and relatives live in Chedd..
 

flexi

Executive Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2014
Posts
6,159
Location
Maidstone
First Name
mark
I would tend to agree with Derek, the finish is moistening the dye, which is then dragging. As to a solution to prevent this, it's outside my comfort zone... Sorry...
 

Bill Mooney

Blind old git
Grand Master
Joined
Aug 16, 2014
Posts
10,997
Location
County Durham
First Name
Bill
Welcome aboard Mark.
I agree with Derek. Although I prefer cellulose sanding sealer on this occasion I would use acrylic sanding sealer.
 

Atlasboy

Apprentice Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2022
Posts
3
Location
Wetley Rocks
First Name
Mark
Will the ca finish go over acrylic?

As only used cellulose as it was tryed and tested method that we used when I started work as apprentice , and for 30 years plus as self employed.
 

silver

General dogsbody
Executive Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2013
Posts
6,301
Location
Somewhere in Staffordshire,
First Name
Eamonn.
Will the ca finish go over acrylic?

As only used cellulose as it was tryed and tested method that we used when I started work as apprentice , and for 30 years plus as self employed.

Acrylic will go over most finishes as its a water based finish. The car body finishing sector has used water based acrylic primer for many years then go over it with either a cellulose (Classic cars usually) or a two pack depending on the finish required. A common problem for them was the "orange peel effect" when using cellulose over the top of synthetic paint. hence the reason for bringing out the acrylics.

I believe that Derek hit the nail on the head with the fact that the sealer may be activating the dye again so allowing it to pick up and bleed on to the others. He! nothing to loose trying acrylics. :thumbs: Let us know how it turns out.

I appreciate that 30 years of training and a long apprenticeship stands for a lot, however there are a lot of new products on the market that have come to the fore over the last 10 years that have changed finishing in a big way.

I always used Micromesh for sanding and finishing right up to 12,000 grade. I have dropped a lot of those now and only use Yorkshire grit. Life changer.
 

Penpal

Grand Master
Joined
May 26, 2013
Posts
25,340
Location
Canberra AUSTRALIA
First Name
Peter
Wish you well and please let us know how you progress with carry over using suggestions so far noted. Welcome from the far east of Australia.
:thumbs:
 

Bill Mooney

Blind old git
Grand Master
Joined
Aug 16, 2014
Posts
10,997
Location
County Durham
First Name
Bill
Hi Alan [MENTION=2049]alan morrison[/MENTION]. Ca is acrylic based so will go over acrylic sanding sealer no bother.:thumbs:
 

Phil Dart

Moderator
Executive Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2014
Posts
5,455
Location
Colebrooke, Devon
First Name
Phil
Hi Mark - welcome to the forum

Eamonn has it. If using spirit stains, seal with an acrylic sealer. If using acrylic stains, seal with a cellulose sealer.
 
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