Aerosol Lacquer vs Craft Coat

[zanz]

Hi. I've been using CA for a while now, it's the only finish I've found that adheres to all the woods I use and seems durable. I must say though, I dread the finishing process. The fumes, the 0.5 seconds you have to get the thing coated before it cures, the lost layers of skin from getting my fingers stuck together... I want to try something new. I use some dense oily woods like african blackwood and cocobolo, so not everything sticks/cures. I've tried Chestnut's liquid melamine and acrylic lacquer. I'm not sure how durable it is but I've managed to scrape it off of some of the denser woods, so I'm not entirely convinced. Chestnut said that their aerosol lacquers are more durable because they use different resins in them, so I was thinking of trying those. Of the aerosols, is there a difference between acrylic and melamine? The other option I was considering is the Craft Coat stuff. Anyone got any opinions on these finishes? I'll probably test them all, but I sell some of the stuff I make and I hate having to test a finish for a few months before knowing if it will hold up. Thanks!

 

[Bill Mooney]

First of all if you're using oily timbers you should degrease the timber by rcleaning with meths spirit or acetone before applying any finish. I've used melamine which takes seven days to cure properly & acrylic lacquer with no problem. I've also used craft coat which seems ok but it is essentially a friction polish so I don't know how durable it is. You'll probably get a lot of advice on this one.

 

[zanz]

Thanks Bill. I do clean with meths first, but I still feel like most finishes don't adhere as well on the dense woods as they do on some of the less dense ones. You know what they say about finishes, ask 100 woodworkers and you'll get 200 opinions :D

 

[Woody]

I have tried Craft coat the first one I done was a J/G after I finished it I literally threw it on my workbench among some corian, acrylic general Off cuts found in a workshop and that was the treatment it got for the next few months real abuse and at the end of it all it was as good as the day I finished it and it sold

 

[fortress]

Hi Reuben welcome to the fun house, sometimes I use CA, sometimes I just wax and buff and sometimes I use melamine lacquer (spray) I am always happy with the finish. where in the world...? it's a big place.

 

[wm460]

Another couple of finishes are the dipping method like Les Elm, and Rustin plastic coat.

https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&...392w6JKzqBLlTfNtQ&sig2=R-h33GkvXs6asMswnrQGwQ

 

[zanz]

I suppose I'll have to try both :D I usually use CA on anything where I've segmented different woods together, because I figure the less moisture change they experience the better for the glue joints. But I do some turning with beads and coves and stuff like that, and applying the CA on those is about as stressful as defusing a bomb. Do the aerosol lacquers need a base coat or can they go on the raw wood? I remember reading that the nitro lacquers need a base coat but I don't know about melamine or acrylic.

I'm from Ireland btw

 

[zanz]

@wm460 I'll look into those! I've heard of the Rustins before, definitely sounds durable! Reminds me of that UV cure Solarez finish, I've been wanting to try that too

 

[Phil Dart]

Hi Reuben - welcome to the fold

I'm a great advocate of melamine - I use the stuff from the tin rather than the spray. It's ready to handle more or less straight away, but as it says in the tin and as Bill has already mentioned, it takes a few days to reach its full hardness, after which its pretty bomb proof, especially if your preparation is to a high standard underneath.

I realise it's all a matter of taste and personal choice, but I question why you want to put any finish at all on some of the denser hardwoods. Something like african blackwood which you mentioned, to my eye is far better off sanded burnished and buffed to a high degree with no chemical finish applied whatsoever. Just my opinion.

 

[wm460]

What sort of melamine lacquer do you use Phil?
Cant find any one that sells it in Aust.

 

[zanz]

With woods like African Blackwood, honestly I prefer the look and feel of them without a finish too. There are a couple of reasons why I end up putting a finish on them: I make pens for calligraphy that get dipped in ink and water a lot, so having a finish keeps them clean and prevents them from absorbing liquid. Another reason is that I often segment woods together, so even if part of the project is something like African Blackwood, there might be other parts that aren't as dense/durable. And then with some woods, especially something like cocobolo, I don't want a customer chewing on their pen and getting an allergic reaction or something

 

[Phil Dart]

With woods like African Blackwood, honestly I prefer the look and feel of them without a finish too. There are a couple of reasons why I end up putting a finish on them: I make pens for calligraphy that get dipped in ink and water a lot, so having a finish keeps them clean and prevents them from absorbing liquid. Another reason is that I often segment woods together, so even if part of the project is something like African Blackwood, there might be other parts that aren't as dense/durable. And then with some woods, especially something like cocobolo, I don't want a customer chewing on their pen and getting an allergic reaction or something

I understand, although your opening argument is to offer a choice of noxious chemicals on which to chew instead of just the wood. I would still advocate melamine for your purposes though. I'm not sure there is a finish yet made that won't come off eventually or cause problems of one sort or another, but once you've learned to use the melamine its the best alll round solution that I've found.

What sort of melamine lacquer do you use Phil?
Cant find any one that sells it in Aust.

Chestnut liquid melamine Mark

 

[zanz]

I understand, although your opening argument is to offer a choice of noxious chemicals on which to chew instead of just the wood

They can have the wood when they're done with their melamine, the more the merrier! I think the melamine is safe enough once it's cured though. I'll have to give it another try, I still have a bottle of the Chestnut melamine.

 

[Pierre---]

For my taste too, a sanding-polishing-buffing is perfect for the hard woods as blackwood or cocobolo. To protect them a bit more, I dip them in linseed oil and let them dry, it is enough for the grain not to rise up, and to protect it from small issues. Quick job and a sensual touch!
And the one who chew my pens deserve at least allergic reactions.

 

[Penpal]

Thanks Bill. I do clean with meths first, but I still feel like most finishes don't adhere as well on the dense woods as they do on some of the less dense ones. You know what they say about finishes, ask 100 woodworkers and you'll get 200 opinions :D

I use a basic CA plus other treatments, conquered the fumes. I cove a lot CA flows well for me. but as you say ask 100 get 200 opinions. Better to standardise on the many you mentioned.

Peter.

 

[zanz]

On some of the longer sections, when I use CA, I do it in sections. I don't use accelerator though, because I've heard people say that it makes the finish more brittle and I've heard people complain about cracking. I don't know. I ordered some Star Bond CA, I'm going to see how that works compared to the Chestnut stuff I've been using

 

[Bill Mooney]

You could try Treatex hard wax oil as this is water & stain resistant.