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Casting is too addictive

jas46

Apprentice Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2016
Posts
48
Location
United Kingdom
First Name
jason
Hi all its been a while but I've been busy making stuff for Xmas and setting up the new vacuum setup :thumbs:
I didn't realise just how addictive making my own acrylics would be but it is so much fun and now I'm into stablewood it's just gets better
Here is a couple if pens made and the first stablized acrylic mix blank
I know the pen clip isn't on properly in the pic lol I forgot to push it all the way home but it is now :thumbs:
 

silver

General dogsbody
Executive Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2013
Posts
6,304
Location
Somewhere in Staffordshire,
First Name
Eamonn.
Yep, but what's up with you?

Have you been to the latest PTA ( pen turners anonymous) meeting to admit your addiction?

Don't start admitting things on here, someone will have you sectioned if you are not carefull.

They will lock you up in a workshop and make turn things like light pulls or God forbid even bowls or boxes..:rolling:

They may even have you making a monthly competition entry of stupid stuff like using a scroll saw or a pyrography machine..:rolling:

Be careful what you admit on here, they never ever forget it.:tongue:.

But saying that, they do look like good casting and well turned. :thumbs:

Remember if you are that addicted you can start and make a few for me if it fills a need for you. I will send you my addy and look forward to seeing a crate full in the post..:whistling:
 

jas46

Apprentice Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2016
Posts
48
Location
United Kingdom
First Name
jason
Cheers silver I don't mind being sectioned if it means I can build all day....hold on I do that anyway hahaha I wondered why my Mrs just let's me go in there all day :thinks:
The finish is good I just can't seem to get it scratch free without spending the entire day sanding it ...
 

silver

General dogsbody
Executive Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2013
Posts
6,304
Location
Somewhere in Staffordshire,
First Name
Eamonn.
Cheers silver I don't mind being sectioned if it means I can build all day....hold on I do that anyway hahaha I wondered why my Mrs just let's me go in there all day :thinks:
The finish is good I just can't seem to get it scratch free without spending the entire day sanding it ...


:funny:
How are you finishing them? What with, method ect, ect..?
 

jas46

Apprentice Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2016
Posts
48
Location
United Kingdom
First Name
jason
Cheers fortress the orange one is mine ane the pink one is my Mrs one hahaha

Silver
Depending on what it's like I normally start at 480 then work upward dry sanding with mesh paper light pressure lathe speed at about 1k I think
Then switch to micro mesh all the way up then finish with tcut and burnishing cream
Polyester I can get bang on, no scratches at all but polyurethane they just seem to appear out of nowhere

Jas
 

Penpal

Grand Master
Joined
May 26, 2013
Posts
25,342
Location
Canberra AUSTRALIA
First Name
Peter
Jason your living the dream with these beaut results and versatile as well taking on timber mixes so well done allround mate.

Peter.
 

silver

General dogsbody
Executive Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2013
Posts
6,304
Location
Somewhere in Staffordshire,
First Name
Eamonn.
Cheers fortress the orange one is mine ane the pink one is my Mrs one hahaha

Silver
Depending on what it's like I normally start at 480 then work upward dry sanding with mesh paper light pressure lathe speed at about 1k I think
Then switch to micro mesh all the way up then finish with tcut and burnishing cream
Polyester I can get bang on, no scratches at all but polyurethane they just seem to appear out of nowhere

Jas

Ta,

With Poly I don't start below 600, wet & dry and always sand with water with a little bit of "fairy" or the likes in the water.. Up to 2500. Then change to Micro mesh from 4000 up to 8000 note the skip from 2500, you will find anything below 4000 in mm is more coarse than the 2500 of w&d.

T cut after 8000 as it is pointless going up to 12000 as t cut is finer than the 12000. Try the 12000 but in my oppinion it's a waste of time on poly. Then finish off with a car resin polish to give it that sparkle.

I usually horizontal wet sand between grades, taking out the radial lines before going on to next grade.

That's my experience and way I do it..

Try it and let us know how you go on..
 

Penpal

Grand Master
Joined
May 26, 2013
Posts
25,342
Location
Canberra AUSTRALIA
First Name
Peter
Ta,

With Poly I don't start below 600, wet & dry and always sand with water with a little bit of "fairy" or the likes in the water.. Up to 2500. Then change to Micro mesh from 4000 up to 8000 note the skip from 2500, you will find anything below 4000 in mm is more coarse than the 2500 of w&d.

T cut after 8000 as it is pointless going up to 12000 as t cut is finer than the 12000. Try the 12000 but in my oppinion it's a waste of time on poly. Then finish off with a car resin polish to give it that sparkle.

I usually horizontal wet sand between grades, taking out the radial lines before going on to next grade.

That's my experience and way I do it..

Try it and let us know how you go on..

Like this myself I don,t go so fine on timber, short cut most of your process on plastic. I like using U Beaut triple eee on plastic it comes up well then other things.


Peter.
 

jas46

Apprentice Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2016
Posts
48
Location
United Kingdom
First Name
jason
Cheers guys I will try those tips on the next pen I make :thumbs:
I've got some more wood soaking at the moment so hoping to make a box at the weekend :face::face:

Jas
 
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