First time turning a pen using only the wood lathe.

[alpha1]

Now that I can actually access my wood lathe I thought I would attempt to turn a pen using only the wood lathe I normally use a metal working lathe.
A total disaster. Ended up in the scrap bin. Back to the drawing board.

 

[flexi]

We all have days like that, good fun init!

 

[Hallelujahal]

Now that I can actually access my wood lathe I thought I would attempt to turn a pen using only the wood lathe I normally use a metal working lathe.
A total disaster. Ended up in the scrap bin. Back to the drawing board.

Sorry to hear that - but its a one-way curve onward & upward! what chisel/gouge did you use?

 

[alpha1]

I used a 1/2" spindle gouge.

 

[Phil Dart]

Ah, freehand turning. As alex said though, the learning curve is one way. Good luck with the journey.

 

[Hallelujahal]

I used a 1/2" spindle gouge.

I asked because I found the only tool that really worked for me initially was a 3/4” roughing gouge. Guys at my club encouraged me to stick with it for quite some time and they showed me how to get a really smooth planing cut with it. It’s still the one I reach for most often especially when dealing with a tricky or uncooperative material

 

[Adal6]

Yes I have day’s like that. everyday the wife next door has a wood burner she over the moon

 

[alpha1]

I asked because I found the only tool that really worked for me initially was a 3/4” roughing gouge. Guys at my club encouraged me to stick with it for quite some time and they showed me how to get a really smooth planing cut with it. It’s still the one I reach for most often especially when dealing with a tricky or uncooperative material

So am I correct in thinking you used a 3/4" roughing gouge to turn a pen. I have a 3/4" roughing gouge.

 

[PensFromNo11]

Now that I can actually access my wood lathe I thought I would attempt to turn a pen using only the wood lathe I normally use a metal working lathe.
A total disaster. Ended up in the scrap bin. Back to the drawing board.

I only have a wood lathe and fairly recently started turning kitless. Yes the curve is quite shallow for a while ( I have half dozen bits of pen that don't go together), but then it comes together quite quickly, so keep at it..
now its just a lifetime of refinement and experiment ..

 

[Rich Aldrich]

So am I correct in thinking you used a 3/4" roughing gouge to turn a pen. I have a 3/4" roughing gouge.

A spindle roughing gauge is only used on spindles. On both the spindle and roughing gauges you will need to ride the bevel. It is all about finesse not power. The cheapest tool ever purchased is a lesson.

 

[Hallelujahal]

So am I correct in thinking you used a 3/4" roughing gouge to turn a pen. I have a 3/4" roughing gouge.

Yes exactly, learning to ride the bevel can give a really smooth finish. Majority of my early pens were turned that way. Also speed is important, I’ve found that around the 1800 to 2000 rpm is about right for most of my wooden pens, faster is usually better for me though others may differ.

 

[Paul-H]

A local workshop I occasionally volunteer at regularly runs pen making classes for total beginners, as a way of introducing people who have never done any woodwork to turning.

They found that the easiest tool for beginners to master was the simple round nose scraper, they have had literally 100's of raw beginners turnout some excellent pens using the scraper.

If you have one give it a go.

 

[alpha1]

I have a couple of scrapers. I quite like using the scraper. Not keen on the Skew.

 

[MikeC]

I have a couple of scrapers. I quite like using the scraper. Not keen on the Skew.

I agree-I have never got on with a skew chisel, and I much prefer the scaper
Mike

 

[akirk]

I would agree - I have taught children from the age of 8/9 to make pens - I usually have some blanks made up with brass tubes already glued in (esp. slimlines) - I throw on a rough spindle of pine and teach them a) how to bring it down to a cylinder then b) how to use the tool to get different shapes - once they have done that - and gained a little confidence with using the lathe, we choose our blanks and pop them on the pen mandrel, talk about why the bushes are there and get to work with making the pen...

always use a round carbide scraper - almost zero chance of getting a catch and they can go in either direction - when you are that age and starting it makes sense to avoid complications such as riding the bevel / direction of grain / etc. - make it simple and they get hooked on making them...

I also tend to not worry about getting the finest finish from the tool - get as close as possible to the shape and then sand paper - they can generally control the sandpaper better and love seeing a slightly rough blank become smoother and smoother... then on go the polishing wheels and they end up with a beautiful pen (or the polishing wheel grabs it and hurls it across the workshop!)

 

[Tom.1946]

I used a 1/2" spindle gouge.

I use 3/4" gouge and 1/2" Skew it helps getting down to the bushes. Tried that planing technique with the bevel of the gouge that is how I ruined one the other day as it kept getting catches and digging in taking pieces out.....

 

[silver]

I have a couple of scrapers. I quite like using the scraper. Not keen on the Skew.

I agree that the Skew is a pain to get right but once you have got it you will never go back to anything else. It’s what I use on a lot of my turnings.

Like Alsadair @akirk said, TCT tipped tools are really simple to use free hand. The round ones are good for segmented as they put less pressure on the segmented sections, however I would recommend the square radius tipped TCT’s as they are better than the square as have a rounded edge and easier than the round as they reduce the radial lines that the round one outs on.

You can get planner TCT radius tips for a lot less than paying out for the so called “pen turning” tips, as actually that’s what they are 9 times out of 10.

I recommend the 6” as they have a better feel being close to square, there is a 4” but the younger ones I taught didn’t really get on with them.

As others have said, it’s a learning curve.

I call it “the curve of pistoffiness” because you do get pi$$ed off before you start on the uphill side and mastering your techniques.

Keep up the free hand work and you will well and truly master it.

 

[MikeC]

I suppose I ought to persist with the skew !!!
But as they say-if it works for you...........etc.
Mike