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I made a Longworth Chuck

21William

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William
I know this is an old post but I've just "refurbished" the Longworth I made five or six years ago. Due to a house move and other issues getting in the way mine had been sitting unused in a couple of damp garages for a few years and had siezed up. I've sanded down and waxed both of the discs and replaced the rusty washers and it works fine now. You've probably got yours working now, did it just need some wax as well?
 

PhillH

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I know this is an old post but I've just "refurbished" the Longworth I made five or six years ago. Due to a house move and other issues getting in the way mine had been sitting unused in a couple of damp garages for a few years and had siezed up. I've sanded down and waxed both of the discs and replaced the rusty washers and it works fine now. You've probably got yours working now, did it just need some wax as well?

Yes thanks, used coach bolts which helped, but it was more sanding and then wax that really made the difference.

All in all still a happy bunny with it.
 

Penpal

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Peter
Forever ago at my Wood Guild we made a jig to get the curved slots made a dozen of them in an assembly line fashion we all brought plasic for the front plate ( perspex) that overcame the friction problem and made them easy to operate. The big ones require great care. The originator a Guy called Longworth was an Aussie who shared his ideas with fellow club members and people all round the world unselfishly.

Peter.
 

wm460

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Tennant Creek, Northern Territory, Australia.
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Mark
Forever ago at my Wood Guild we made a jig to get the curved slots made a dozen of them in an assembly line fashion we all brought plasic for the front plate ( perspex) that overcame the friction problem and made them easy to operate. The big ones require great care. The originator a Guy called Longworth was an Aussie who shared his ideas with fellow club members and people all round the world unselfishly.

Peter.

Has your guild still got this jig Peter?:thinks:
 

ColWA

Apprentice Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2013
Posts
13
I had the exact same problem, hard to turn & adjust. I have also drilled 6mm holes around the edge so I can fit a bar in to help.
A mate made one recently using 18mm ply which was laminated with Formica on both sides, works a treat. I will be changing mine soon.

HTH
Col
 

Penpal

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Peter
I like the Formica idea I think the 18mm ply is an overkill it is advisable to run them at as low a speed as makes it easy to turn also if you can grub screw the unit to the shaft it could save a catastrophe one Saturday when our Guild was smaller and we had no premises we the turners used to meet at each others workshop in rotation my mate had a very large one mounted on his heavy Woodfast Lathe he forgot it was set on flat out and whilst demoing it to us he switched it on it sounded like a rocket then he did the stupid thing of using his hand to slow that upset the geometry it spun off the lathe hit him in the sternum busted this and a couple of ribs. Dreadfull experience from memory it was set on reverse direction he used to sand in reverse.

Anyway please be very careful they work great deserve special caution.

Peter.
 

kjmc1957

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Jul 29, 2013
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Chatteris
I did one exactly the same as you, even down to the home brew plugs, I have 2 observations, 1) check that the Ply is truly flat, often when people say that they used it cos it was just lying around often means lying up against a wall which can introduce a slight bow. 2) dismantle it all, sand to at least 600 on the mating faces and then use a strip to sand the channels for the bolts as routers and ply don't always mean a good finish, then add lots of good wax to the inside faces . when I get around to it I'm going to place the bolts in some brass tubes to reduce the effect of the bolts on the channels....wonder where I'll get some brass tubing from??? from your photo it looks as if the bungs don't have much of a taper or is that cos they are being compressed.
 
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