Using CA (Superglue) as a finish

[Paul-H]

Hi all

I have a couple of Newbie CA questions for you more experienced pen turner's

So being new I have been watching loads of YouTube videos on the application and finishing of CA for finishing pens and have a couple of questions?

1. Most seem to just apply the CA direct to the wood but a few use a Boiled Linceed oil/CA mix for the first coat, any idea why they do that.

2. Probably running before I can walk I gave it ago tonight and it didn't end well, I applied about 8 coats using an activator between coats, then sanded and polished to a nice glass like finish, which I was well pleased with, the problems began when I tried to assemble the pens. I did remember to sand the ends of the tubes to remove any CA build up but on the first attempt the CA cracked like broken glass and on the second attempt the CA cracked around the end as the end cap was pushed in.

I know I should expect it to go right first time but I can't see what I did wrong, any thoughts.

Could it be the type of CA I used, being a generic low cost bottle from Wilco, would I get better results using a branded CA, ie, loctite, Starbond, Titebond etc or are they all generally the same thing.

Could it be that I don't yet have a pen press and just use my bench vice to press the parts together, could it be as simple as I am using too much force?

Any other thoughts on what I am doing wrong, or are these failures quite common with CA and the youtubers keep quite about their failures.

Thanks for any help with this.

Paul

 

[flexi]

I am no expert myself with CA but did have good results when I was using it, (okay I do occasionally still use it), I never used BLO, But believe it's used to clean the blank and act as an activator on the first coat. As to brand its never mattered, but viscosity has, I have always used thin.
You have said you sanded the tube ends, which is great, I always run a rats tail file through the tube to check for CA as it can creap in. CA cannot expand to any degree and is unforgiving so your tube needs to be spotless....
All the above and more were my reasons for changing to Melamine laquer

 

[Penpal]

I question the need for high numbers of CA coatsthe vex question of splits in pressing enlarge the brass so it is not a fearsome press. I use adjustable reamers.

 

[alpha1]

I can not help I am afraid I have never used a CA finish on any of my pens.

 

[howsitwork?]

I think it’s the lack of expansion as you press the figments in. They are a push fit and theCA is brittle . If you’re even slightly out pushing the tube will flex but the CA will not , hence end cracking.

A reamer and secure the fittings with a drop of CA perhaps but tubes MUST be scrupulously clean internal DAMHIKT 🫣

Im still learning with CA and like Phil much prefer melamine lacquer.

I apply 50% thinned first and leave overnight to penetrate and cure .
You do ( or rather I found I do ) need very good quality brushes to flow it on though. There is little as frustrating as the” set stray hair “ in the surface when you come back to assemble one

 

[Hallelujahal]

Yes as everyone else has said internals need to be bone dry and clear. I love my pen press and it has made a big difference in helping to get the pens assembled with less issues. However I know a guy who wallops them together using a mallet and a piece of leather and has done so successfully for decades…
I too have switched to using Melamine laquer these days, it’s just so much easier cleaner and quicker.

 

[Paul-H]

Thanks for the replies.

I have never heard of this Melamine laquer before, but will be looking into it, any makes I should look out for

Thanks

Paul

 

[Morse]

Paul.
If you go to BeaufortInks.co.uk
Look under finishing/polishing, Chestnut melamine, there’s also a link to how to apply it.

(Really must ask someone to show me how to link to a site )
Dave

 

[Hallelujahal]

Thanks for the replies.

I have never heard of this Melamine laquer before, but will be looking into it, any makes I should look out for

Thanks

Paul

Chestnut melamine lacquer - 500ml

When you’re looking for a hard-wearing, heat and water resistant, quick drying gloss lacquer you need look no further than Melamine Lacquer. Based on cellulose technology, Melamine Lacquer has ...

www.beaufortink.co.uk

 

[David M]

I have used both melamine lacquer and 4 or 5 coats of thin CA but, unlike most responses here, prefer the CA. I think the lacquer does give a more ‘natural’ look but the CA is more robust and, for me anyway, I prefer a glossier look. I would welcome a view on how people use the lacquer…maybe I’m not applying it the best way…any tips?
I use a vice to press fitments and have not had cracking CA so far…maybe just lucky but keep the tube clean, test the fit before turning and open it up if really tight.

 

[geordie0928]

Im like Dave have never used it.

 

[alan morrison]

Thanks for the replies.

I have never heard of this Melamine laquer before, but will be looking into it, any makes I should look out for

Thanks

Paul

https://penturners.co.uk/index.php?resources/achieving-success-with-melamine-as-a-pen-finish-tutorial.3/

 

[alpha1]

Beufort ink. How to apply Melamine finish.

Beaufort Ink - Achieving success with melamine as a pen finish

Achieving success with melamine as a pen finish

www.beaufortink.co.uk

 

[Hallelujahal]

I have used both melamine lacquer and 4 or 5 coats of thin CA but, unlike most responses here, prefer the CA. I think the lacquer does give a more ‘natural’ look but the CA is more robust and, for me anyway, I prefer a glossier look. I would welcome a view on how people use the lacquer…maybe I’m not applying it the best way…any tips?
I use a vice to press fitments and have not had cracking CA so far…maybe just lucky but keep the tube clean, test the fit before turning and open it up if really tight.

First CA crack this evening . Beautiful pen too, with Mozambique Leadwood. But CA finish cracked when pushing the nib end in. Thought I’d cleaned the tube end out properly as well. Oh well I’ll give it another go tomorrow btw I’m finding that a coat of Boiled Linseed Oil before applying CA is really helpful!

 

[Toothillcollie]

Hi all

I have a couple of Newbie CA questions for you more experienced pen turner's

So being new I have been watching loads of YouTube videos on the application and finishing of CA for finishing pens and have a couple of questions?

1. Most seem to just apply the CA direct to the wood but a few use a Boiled Linceed oil/CA mix for the first coat, any idea why they do that.

2. Probably running before I can walk I gave it ago tonight and it didn't end well, I applied about 8 coats using an activator between coats, then sanded and polished to a nice glass like finish, which I was well pleased with, the problems began when I tried to assemble the pens. I did remember to sand the ends of the tubes to remove any CA build up but on the first attempt the CA cracked like broken glass and on the second attempt the CA cracked around the end as the end cap was pushed in.

I know I should expect it to go right first time but I can't see what I did wrong, any thoughts.

Could it be the type of CA I used, being a generic low cost bottle from Wilco, would I get better results using a branded CA, ie, loctite, Starbond, Titebond etc or are they all generally the same thing.

Could it be that I don't yet have a pen press and just use my bench vice to press the parts together, could it be as simple as I am using too much force?

Any other thoughts on what I am doing wrong, or are these failures quite common with CA and the youtubers keep quite about their failures.

Thanks for any help with this.

Paul

Hi Paul, I use 3 types of CA, 1st a thin from screwfix 3 coats, 2nd medium from toolstation 3 coats an lastly thick from toolstation 1 coat. All used with activator between coats, buy from amazon 12 tins at a time at a great price. I use blo when I have inserted pine cones into resin, after sanding it brings out a deeper colour. Hope this helps. Tony

 

[Mike Bird]

Very interesting to hear these comments on CA finishing. I stopped using it a long time ago. Found it messy and unpredictable and yes it cracks.
Melamine works great but have experimented with Friction Polish followed by Microcrystalline was and it works for me.
I apply two coats of Friction Polish with the Lathe stationary along the blank then two coats with the lathe spinning at high speed follow this with wax.
This gives a very durable result.

 

[Rob Stoakley]

I have used both melamine lacquer and 4 or 5 coats of thin CA but, unlike most responses here, prefer the CA. I think the lacquer does give a more ‘natural’ look but the CA is more robust and, for me anyway, I prefer a glossier look. I would welcome a view on how people use the lacquer…maybe I’m not applying it the best way…any tips?
I use a vice to press fitments and have not had cracking CA so far…maybe just lucky but keep the tube clean, test the fit before turning and open it up if really tight.

I'm a complete newbie to this pen turning malarky and have to date only spun up a couple of Slimline kits from Axminster. I did though, have a tutorial from my pal Andy Pickard who showed me how it's done and moreover what kit to purchase and what to avoid. He uses O2 Medium CA and achieved what I thought were impressive results, so I tried it on my first pens. The barrels are sanded to 600g inc parallel to the lathe bed and then six thin coats of medium O2 CA applied, sanding carefully between each coat with 600g Abranet; lathe speed set at 600rpm. When the finish has fully hardened, the barrels are sanded with 1000g wet n'dry, then a decent application of Yorkshire Grit. The final polish is achieved with T Cut and then finally buffed with a soft duster. As advised by Andy, the ends of each were carefully sanded on wet/dry paper to remove any hardened CA frass before assembly in the pen press.

Perhaps the worst aspect of finishing with CA is the fumes given off. I needed to apply each coat quite rapidly, switch the lathe off and then make a bee line for the door and fresh air! - Rob

 

[DuncSuss]

Perhaps the worst aspect of finishing with CA is the fumes given off. I needed to apply each coat quite rapidly, switch the lathe off and then make a bee line for the door and fresh air! - Rob

Rob - the implication is that you are not using a respirator mask that filters dust and VOCs (volatile organic compounds). I strongly recomment you get one, they are a lot cheaper and much less trouble than a lung transplant.

I use the 3M model 6200 like this - not sure if it's available in UK, but there will be an equivalent. LINK to Amazon. respirator mask, LINK to the dust/VOC cartridges. I like the type with replaceable cotton dust filters rather than the sealed units.

 

[CraftyNick]

Hi Paul, I mainly use CA glue on my pens, not everyone's cup of tea as you can see by the comments here. Firstly it does not like any form of expansion. As you have found out it will CRACK! So the ends need to be perfectly finished. The ends need to be sanded back to the brass tube so there is no pressure on the CA when pressing in each end. Don't over do the pressing! Before that ensure the inside of the tube is free from contamination and clean. I always offer up the parts of the kits I'm using and gently push them together by hand before moving to the press. if it all feels a little tight then out comes the rats tail file to ease things. It's a fine line with CA as it will not expand without cracking! I also seal the ends with very thin CA without hardener before turning the blank. The CA soaks into the end grain. Most importantly, always wear the right mask! CA is nasty stuff! Good luck, and remember, practice makes perfect.

 

[Rob Stoakley]

Rob - the implication is that you are not using a respirator mask that filters dust and VOCs (volatile organic compounds). I strongly recomment you get one, they are a lot cheaper and much less trouble than a lung transplant.

I use the 3M model 6200 like this - not sure if it's available in UK, but there will be an equivalent. LINK to Amazon. respirator mask, LINK to the dust/VOC cartridges. I like the type with replaceable cotton dust filters rather than the sealed units.

Thanks for that; I've just been on the dog n'bone to the techno weenies at Ax and sorted out a suitable JSP half face respirator with appropriate filters (103083 if interested) - Rob