• Thanks for visiting The Penturners Forum today.

    There are many features and resources that currently you are unable to see or access, either because you're not yet registered, or if you're already registered, because you're not logged in.

    To gain full access to the forum, please log in or register now. Registration is completely free, it only takes a few seconds, and you can join our well established community of like-minded pen makers.

Best Product and Method of Dying Blanks

Woody

Registered
Joined
Jul 12, 2013
Posts
12,812
Location
at home
First Name
no
From my experience water based dyes (acrylic) don't penetrate deep into the wood spirit dyes will soak a lot deeper but the only other way I can see a pen blank getting soaked right to the core without a pressure pot is if it is drilled out first and submerged in the dye and allowed to soak right in but that no guarantee looks like an expensive project to me
 

edlea

Lobbygobbler
Registered
Joined
Aug 1, 2013
Posts
4,693
Location
Blackpool
First Name
Ed
From my experience water based dyes (acrylic) don't penetrate deep into the wood spirit dyes will soak a lot deeper but the only other way I can see a pen blank getting soaked right to the core without a pressure pot is if it is drilled out first and submerged in the dye and allowed to soak right in but that no guarantee looks like an expensive project to me

I agree , with spirit stain it would be very expensive.
 

Grump

Grand Master
Joined
Aug 17, 2013
Posts
10,504
Location
Stevenage
First Name
Brian
Certainly an interesting experiment and one I might think about taking on at some time.
I agree that water based stains are less likely to penetrate as the wood content already contains water which would need dispelling first.
My thinking is to drill a series of holes along the blank and fill them with stain to see how far it does actually leech into the wood.
The only way to get full penetration is through the end grain.
I have experimented in the past with some of this drawing stain into wood through capillary action with some success but gave up as I didn't find it interesting enough to want to continue.
May have another go though as I still have a quantity of stains in shed.
 

Woody

Registered
Joined
Jul 12, 2013
Posts
12,812
Location
at home
First Name
no
The timber trade have been doing this with wood preservatives tantalising wood for exterior use and it is done under pressure and it soaks right to the core and takes an age to dry out again the american market have been doing it for years with coloured resins and it gives a solid colour right through but as Brian said it does depend on wood type and again they do it under pressure
 

sbwertz

Full Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2013
Posts
301
Location
Phoenix, AZ, USA
First Name
Sharon
I use food coloring diluted in denatured alcohol so it doesn't raise the grain. I turn the blank to finish size and sand. Then I wipe on the dilute dye with the lathe running, adding coats until I have the desired color. Then micro mesh and CA/BLO finish. Here is a green one. It is Box Elder Burr

_MG_2732.CR2.jpg
 

yorkshireman

Wood Rat
Executive Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2013
Posts
5,199
Location
wrexham
First Name
Keith
That looks good Sharon but personally I wouldn't dye a lovely piece like that. On a boring piece of oak perhaps but not a burr.

keith
 

Doug

Loquacious
Executive Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2013
Posts
6,664
Location
In the wood shop
First Name
Take a guess
Lovely pen & finish Sharon,:thumbs:

I`ve been asked for a green pen so will be trying something like that.:thinks:
 

Neil

Fellow
Joined
May 21, 2013
Posts
3,132
Location
Hitchin, Hertfordshire
First Name
Neil
Welcome to the forum, if you want to colour your pens, turn them and stain them (use chestnut stains). if you want dyed blanks you need to get Alex to shoot them!
 

Grump

Grand Master
Joined
Aug 17, 2013
Posts
10,504
Location
Stevenage
First Name
Brian
I think we have wandered from what the question is.
This person wants to segment with his dyed wood so is looking for penetration through the wood.
We all know that vacuum or pressure would be the way to go but he probably does not want to go that route for his own reasons.
I gather he is doing small one off jobs and just wants coloured pieces to cut and use.
I would therefore suggest porous dry woods for the coloured pieces, as previously suggest soaked in a dye to allow it to leach in through end grain.
When dried after you may well get the desired effect or drill a hole in the middle of the piece and pour the dye in the hole plugging it when finished may give a good effect to the piece.
 
Warning! This thread has not had any replies for over a year. You are welcome to post a reply here, but it might be better to start a new thread (and maybe include a link to this one if you need to).
Top