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Micromesh comes in grits from 1500 to 12000 so it is more in competition with burnishing creams and plastic polishes than backed abrasives which, apart from the finer grades of silicone carbide tend to only go down to 1000 or 1200 grit.
I wrote an article about abrasives including micromesh for Woodturning magazine, that might help you. Here is a link:
http://www.walterhall.co.uk/images/stories/Abrasives_for_pen_making.pdf
I wrote an article about abrasives including micromesh for Woodturning magazine, that might help you. Here is a link:
http://www.walterhall.co.uk/images/stories/Abrasives_for_pen_making.pdf
Bigblackdog
Registered
i like the micromesh pads Micro Mesh Soft Touch Pad Abrasives Pen Turning 50x50mm 9pc Set DT705410 | eBay
i have never used the mx that you linked to, the regular stuff is good though. Micro-Mesh Regular Abrasive Polishing Cloth Kit - 9 Sheets of 6"x3" | eBay i am pretty sure it was the 9 type kit that i got. You can cut each sheet into 4.
However, if you are using this for acrylic, I took some advice on the forum and sand to 600 grit, radially and along the grain. From there, i put some scratch remover and buff, and some polish and buff. I thought it was a farecla 200 and 300, but the tubes on ebay look different. other brands available, anyway. it is a lot quicker than micromesh.
i have never used the mx that you linked to, the regular stuff is good though. Micro-Mesh Regular Abrasive Polishing Cloth Kit - 9 Sheets of 6"x3" | eBay i am pretty sure it was the 9 type kit that i got. You can cut each sheet into 4.
However, if you are using this for acrylic, I took some advice on the forum and sand to 600 grit, radially and along the grain. From there, i put some scratch remover and buff, and some polish and buff. I thought it was a farecla 200 and 300, but the tubes on ebay look different. other brands available, anyway. it is a lot quicker than micromesh.
Penpal
Grand Master
I have always used wet and dry to very fine grades, have an aversion to water used on a wood lathe.
The sobering thing for me was forever ago I received a pen in a swap from David now Timberbits of a great example finished to 400 grit (still his standard) using New Guinea fairly plain Rosewood. Even from ten feet away its a zinger, is still. He had been penturning for three months at this time.
So yes there is space for everyone in their choice of, how they finish etc.
Not heard much reported re quality and real pricing of Micromesh but I will follow with interest your results. Good luck with your choice.
Peter.
The sobering thing for me was forever ago I received a pen in a swap from David now Timberbits of a great example finished to 400 grit (still his standard) using New Guinea fairly plain Rosewood. Even from ten feet away its a zinger, is still. He had been penturning for three months at this time.
So yes there is space for everyone in their choice of, how they finish etc.
Not heard much reported re quality and real pricing of Micromesh but I will follow with interest your results. Good luck with your choice.
Peter.
It is Farecla Profile 300 Rapid Cut and Farecla 500 Light Cut liquid compounds.
Oh, and I agree it blows micromesh out of the water for polishing acrylics.
Farecla Marine Rubbing Compounds
wm460
Grand Master
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- Mar 16, 2013
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My ambition is to be able to sand to 600 grit like Les.:pray:
Mr Finch
Full Member
Just as a slight addendum to this thread, the "grit" count for Micromesh is different than for standard abrasives.
Micro-Mesh(R) Grit Size Conversion Chart
The table at the above link gives exact comparisons but 1500 "regular" micromesh sits between P600 and P800 abrasives (standard sand paper) while 3200 "regular" MM is above P2500. 12,000 "regular" MM has no P comparison according to the table.
It's also worth noting that there are different types of MM for different materials. The one we turners use is Regular "For Plastics, Wood, Composites, Urethanes and Soft Materials".
HTH!
Micro-Mesh(R) Grit Size Conversion Chart
The table at the above link gives exact comparisons but 1500 "regular" micromesh sits between P600 and P800 abrasives (standard sand paper) while 3200 "regular" MM is above P2500. 12,000 "regular" MM has no P comparison according to the table.
It's also worth noting that there are different types of MM for different materials. The one we turners use is Regular "For Plastics, Wood, Composites, Urethanes and Soft Materials".
HTH!
Mr Finch
Full Member
Glen
The set you linked in the above post are the MX grits and should be used for "Metal Finishing and Hard Materials".
The 200ml tubes do indeed last for ages. You only need a very small amount each time.
On acrylic & metal I dry sand to 400 grit radially & laterally at 900 rpm. Then I use 0000 wire wool radially & laterally at 1600 rpm. I then polish with Farecla profile 300 & 500 at 1600 rpm then rub with a clean soft cloth to remove residue with lathe stopped. I've used this method for a year or 2 now without any complaint & would never think of using MM again.
Penpal
Grand Master
It seems using Micro Mesh wet conserves the product really, lubricates the task, users this way seem to get long life from the pads.
Peter.
Peter.
I still use MM as I brought a big stash of it when a company was selling it off due to closing down..
Was cheap but finding that I am using the 4000 above and never use the lower grades as I had a stash of 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000 and 2500 wet and dry.
I don't tend to use that much either as mine are religiously cut in to nice little 25mm x 50mm (ish) strip pieces.
But when (if ever at this rate) I use stock up I will move on to the farcela as I already had some for my pride and joy.
Some great responses to the thread as well, nice to see new links.
Was cheap but finding that I am using the 4000 above and never use the lower grades as I had a stash of 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000 and 2500 wet and dry.
I don't tend to use that much either as mine are religiously cut in to nice little 25mm x 50mm (ish) strip pieces.
But when (if ever at this rate
) I use stock up I will move on to the farcela as I already had some for my pride and joy.Some great responses to the thread as well, nice to see new links.
If it is acrylic or ca finish I sand to 400 then use farcela 300 and then 500 then for a final use a good car detailer and a coat of canuba don't know if the last two steps are needed but just do them out of habit have in the past used autosol or brasso which works too.