alpha1
Fellow
I spent a day in the Shed learning how to cut triple lead threads in 12x0.8 it went better than I thought. This is the first step in my journey. I have decided to go down the kit less pen route. Wish me luck.
13mm is plenty for no 6 nibs such as Bock, Jowo or Schmidt. It gives you an (approx) 12mm section and the housings are generally in the 8-9mm diameter range.What size do you recon you will need for #6 nibs, would you get away with a 13, or would you have to go for a 14 or 15mm
Just asking as I know when I eventually go down that route I will only be able to buy 1 size :(
Thank you for taking one for the team, there is clearly a good few of us wanting to make the leap into kitless and I guess it's the financial leap that the biggest blocker. So thank you for keeping us informed with the potential pitfalls and thank you Ash for your expert advice.Been playing again I now see why you would not use 12x0.8 triple lead taps and dies for a Bock size 6 nib and housing. I will probably get away with a bock size 5 nib and section. If i want to make a pen with size 6 Bock nib I need another set of taps and dies. Hmm expensive. I will have a go at a pen with a size 5 nib. If I want to make a pen with a size 6 nib I will use single lead taps and dies for now and see how I get on.
I probably should of done more research before buying the triple lead tap and die. Any way size 5 should be fine for now. Just need to find the Shed time now.
Good luck Dave! Let us know how it progresses.I spent a day in the Shed learning how to cut triple lead threads in 12x0.8 it went better than I thought. This is the first step in my journey. I have decided to go down the kit less pen route. Wish me luck.
Have you checked the Mandrel with a Micrometer to see if it is that?Hmm what dosnt help is when you purchase a mandrel that states it is 12x0.8 triple lead that will not accept the pen blank that you have drilled and tapped with a triple lead tap to 12x0.8. The mandrel is supposed to allow you to hold your blank on the lathe to turn it.
This one has either been put in the wrong box or it has not been machined properly to the correct dimensions or I dont know how to cut a thread properly.
thanks for the update, valuable informationOk a update. The mandral thing was my fault.
When cutting a 12x0.8 triple lead thread there are two drill sizes you can use.
If you want a 72% approx thread you use a 11mm drill this is what I chose to do.
If you want a 55% approx thread you use a 11.5mm drill.
I decided on the tighter thread the problem came when I tried to fit the tapped blank on the mandral the front part of the mandral in front of the thread is 11mm.
So I put the blank back on the lathe I left the thread alone but drilled up to it from the finial end I then popped it back on the mandral with no issues.
So I either go with a 55% approx thread or I shave a bit of the mandral.
I am thinking I will shave a bit of the mandral. But we will see.
Another bit of learning.
What do you make your mandrels from? would aluminium or brass work?Would you consider making your own? The benefit to that is, not only can you account for the issue you’ve encountered, but you can design your mandrel to fit your cap, rather than designing your cap fit your mandrel.
Cheers
Ash
I use brass, but aluminium is fine. In fact if you’re just starting out I would even suggest using scrap resin to begin with as it’s easier to modify/cheap to replace as you play around with ideas and design changes.What do you make your mandrels from? would aluminium or brass work?
It’s worth doing and as I’ve mentioned above you can always play around with it using scrap resin and once you’re happy make the final version in brass/aluminium. (Although if you’re like me you’ll never be truly happy ).Hi Ash
Good point I had all ready considered that making my own mandrels is an option.