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Anybody used the MT1 Big Grabber Closed end Mandrel

Ziggy Sawdust

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Hi I am looking at the MT1 Big Grabber Closed end Mandrel, and wondering if you can just buy the spares as I already have the Mandrel, I have noticed with other Closed End Mandrels on the market, they open up at the end to grip tube internally very securely..this one just seems to have a bit of rubber tubing to hold it...and an end cap...View attachment 32686 Is this the best way to hold the blank, or do others use the individual expanding ones.. I just need a little help on what people used to make the Omega..etc and how long this tubing lasts...?

I look forward to hearing from you
 

Lons

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Or.... You can make your own using a Rawlbolt type fitting, several sizes available to work in the same way
Or.... Make out of round bar to fit the inside dia. of the tubes you want to use ( I made several sizes ), file a flat to accept a round pin et voila' !

There are several threads around and links on the internet and youtube.
 

Buckeye

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There's a tutorial in Tutorials.

Peter
 

Walter

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What Bob said or just make a jam chuck from wood.

I have used one of those (the 2MT version but just the same) and they work. Only problem I had was with the rubber sticking in the tube.

Here's a link to an article I wrote on closed end pens - including one of those mandrels. Hope it helps:

http://www.walterhall.co.uk/images/stories/Closed_end_pens.pdf
 

Penpal

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Using a version that uses a pin can create an out of round in your turning it creates an imbalance. I prefer an expanding mandrel nfor this.

Peter.
 

silver

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As others have said Simon,

TBH they are another "gimmick" as you can make your own closed end mandrells.

If you buy yourself a set of transfer punches and file a flat edge on them in position for the tube, use a panel pin cut to length to use as a pin chuck.

You will find out as you progress through buying tools for making pens you will buy loads of stuff that you really don't need.
 

wm460

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What Bob said or just make a jam chuck from wood.

I have used one of those (the 2MT version but just the same) and they work. Only problem I had was with the rubber sticking in the tube.

Here's a link to an article I wrote on closed end pens - including one of those mandrels. Hope it helps:

http://www.walterhall.co.uk/images/stories/Closed_end_pens.pdf

Funny I was looking at closed end pens yesterday and this was aone of the couple inks that I read.:thumbs:
 

Ziggy Sawdust

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Simon
Thank you

Thank you so much for the information, I thought that rubber tubing would be a bit short lived.. the pin mandrel looks a possibility..and the rawbolt idea too .... The magazine article by Walter is really handy.

I have found a helpful link to pen tubing pin mandrels sold in UK too...

Adaptors, Chucks & Mandrels

Hope this helps
 

Lons

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Using a version that uses a pin can create an out of round in your turning it creates an imbalance. I prefer an expanding mandrel nfor this.

Peter.

I haven't had that problem Peter, mine are a tight fit so can't see how they can, all the pin does is provide some friction. Surely that can only happen if the fit is sloppy. :thinks: Eammons suggestion to use transfer punches would mean a very good fit to the tube so wouldn't cause any problem whatsoever imo.

I also have a couple of pin chucks I made for holding larger turnings and again no problems.
 

silver

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Thank you so much for the information, I thought that rubber tubing would be a bit short lived.. the pin mandrel looks a possibility..and the rawbolt idea too .... The magazine article by Walter is really handy.

I have found a helpful link to pen tubing pin mandrels sold in UK too...

Adaptors, Chucks & Mandrels

Hope this helps

There you go you see, you could buy a whole set of transfer punches for just one pin chuck.

Then you could make the whole set in to pin chucks, and would have enough chucks to turn every pen kit made in to a closed end kit.
 

Dalboy

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For the few closed end pens that I produce, all I use is a piece of hard wood turned into a snug fit bring the tailstock up for the roughing out and most of the finishing cuts then remove the tailstock and finish as there is enough friction to complete
 
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